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Old September 2, 2015   #137
Worth1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loulac View Post
Worth,
I've just had a look at my 921 All american pressure canner.
there is a reinforcement inside the lid at the location of the manometer.
I unscrewed the manometer and found the threaded part on the lid was 11 millimeters long.
I screwed back the manometer into place, trying the keep the original torque. I had two mm of thread left on the manometer.
Inside the lid I could see there was still a fairly long threaded lenght.
The threading is standard in plumbing, replacements should be easy.
I suppose a highly qualified TIG welder could build a reinforcement on any kind of lid but the heat might alter its shape. Personnally I wouldn't advise it to amateurs !
Thanks for the information but I didn't expect anyone to pull a gauge to do it.
I suspected there was a reinforcement at the threaded places.
Just so you know the rule of thumb for pipe fittings is 4 turns by hand and three by force.
You might want to take it off and put some pipe thread sealant on it.

May I ask about how wide the thread boss is on the inside of the canner?

I'm with you, there is no way I would weld on the thing.

11 MM more than meets the requirements for a 1/4 pipe thread on pressure vessels.

Also I went to the foundry site that makes the canner and found this information.
7) IS IT NECESSARY TO HAVE MY GAUGE TESTED WHEN USING THE PRESSURE REGULATOR WEIGHT?

No, the pressure regulator weight is actually more accurate than the steam gauge. Many pressure cookers with pressure regulator weights do not have steam gauges. Our gauge is accurate +/- 2 lbs, and is used only as a reference, and to determine when the cover can be safely removed, which is when the steam gauge returns to zero.

Here is the link.
http://www.allamerican-chefsdesign.c...-Questions.asp
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