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TheUrbanFarmer · June 21, 2015

But, I did get a bit ahead of myself here on the order of things. It's hard to document a journal when you are running weeks behind. I have notes all over the places to organize to get the dates right on when I did different things.

Stuff like this is important to me as I'll remember the things I could have done slightly better for next year and rather than constantly being reactive to the plants needs, I can be a bit more proactive next season and further reduce various points of stress on the plants, which in my opinion can become vectors for disease to take hold if let unaddressed, depending on the type of factors present.

Next year I am planning to farm a 1/4 acre, so thoroughly documenting this years journey has become a bit more important to me.

6/15/2015

This was a couple days into 100 degree temperatures. It was about this time I noticed the first fruits developing what I thought was blossom end rot but was in fact under hydration.

A couple more days of extreme temperatures (over 100 degrees) and the plants were starting to show some wear. Out of all the varieties in the garden, the Cherokee Purple and Red Velvet seemed to be most sensitive to these environmental conditions.

I had already increased my watering amount and frequency to 2x a day a couple days prior so this new leaf tissue issue was a bit curious. My initial assumption sun scald as I have, but a close friend suggested it was perhaps a lack of phosphorous.

I wasn't entirely sure so I took away the damaged leaves and got some pictures, hoping the experts on here can tell me 100% what caused this! Any suggestions???

6/17/2015

It was because of the above issues that I went ahead and decided to begin my top feed regimen a bit early. I hadn't anticipated doing so until the first mature fruits had been harvested, but if it was the result of a phosphorous deficiency, I wanted to act sooner than later!

This actually brings me to post #10 where I discussed the top feeding application. 2 cups per bed (1/4 cup per plant) gently scratched into the surface

6/18/2015

Which again, really just brings me back to the details in post #10.

I tried to use the panorama feature on my phone to capture the full garden at a different angle to give a better perception of it's size but the quality is low.

June 21, 2015	#11
TheUrbanFarmer Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Zone 8a Posts: 64	But, I did get a bit ahead of myself here on the order of things. It's hard to document a journal when you are running weeks behind. I have notes all over the places to organize to get the dates right on when I did different things. Stuff like this is important to me as I'll remember the things I could have done slightly better for next year and rather than constantly being reactive to the plants needs, I can be a bit more proactive next season and further reduce various points of stress on the plants, which in my opinion can become vectors for disease to take hold if let unaddressed, depending on the type of factors present. Next year I am planning to farm a 1/4 acre, so thoroughly documenting this years journey has become a bit more important to me. 6/15/2015 This was a couple days into 100 degree temperatures. It was about this time I noticed the first fruits developing what I thought was blossom end rot but was in fact under hydration. A couple more days of extreme temperatures (over 100 degrees) and the plants were starting to show some wear. Out of all the varieties in the garden, the Cherokee Purple and Red Velvet seemed to be most sensitive to these environmental conditions. I had already increased my watering amount and frequency to 2x a day a couple days prior so this new leaf tissue issue was a bit curious. My initial assumption sun scald as I have, but a close friend suggested it was perhaps a lack of phosphorous. I wasn't entirely sure so I took away the damaged leaves and got some pictures, hoping the experts on here can tell me 100% what caused this! Any suggestions??? 6/17/2015 It was because of the above issues that I went ahead and decided to begin my top feed regimen a bit early. I hadn't anticipated doing so until the first mature fruits had been harvested, but if it was the result of a phosphorous deficiency, I wanted to act sooner than later! This actually brings me to post #10 where I discussed the top feeding application. 2 cups per bed (1/4 cup per plant) gently scratched into the surface 6/18/2015 Which again, really just brings me back to the details in post #10. I tried to use the panorama feature on my phone to capture the full garden at a different angle to give a better perception of it's size but the quality is low. Last edited by TheUrbanFarmer; June 21, 2015 at 02:02 PM.