[feldon30]

This is what I did last year (and spring 2008 ) and had very good results:

* Use SOILLESS seed starting mix. It's $4 for an 8 quart bag. I have had trouble in the past making my own seed starting mix and now insist on buying seed starting mix. If you're making your own seed starting mix from peat moss, vermiculite, perlite, etc., and the peat moss does not have a wetting agent, add a gallon of warm water with 1 tsp of dishwashing soap* dissolved in it to wet it.

* If you are reusing any containers, dip them in boiling water for a few minutes or spray them with 10% bleach solution to kill any bacteria.

* Presoaking seeds in a weak tea and seaweed emulsion is purely optional but can increase germination rates. I add a tea bag to a cup of warm water and let steep for 5 minutes. I then discard the tea bag and add a few drops of Maxicrop liquid seaweed. I set aside several small bowls or cups, add my seeds, and then add enough of the soaking water to each to moisten the seeds.

* Moisten your seed starting mix first. Last year I put the soil in the trays dry and then wetted it and then had to add more soil. It was a mess. From now on, I fill a large bowl of seed starting mix and then moisten it and mix it well with my hands first, so it is still fluffy (not sopping wet).

* Sow shallowly! Smaller fruited vars like cherry, roma, etc. generally have smaller seeds. You may even want to drop smaller seeds on top of the soil and drape a few strands of peat moss over it.

* Don't overwater. Let seed starting mix start to dry out before misting again with a spray bottle, otherwise seeds may rot.

* Seedling heat mats ($35) are optional for tomatoes, recommended for peppers. Otherwise sow peppers 2 weeks before tomatoes. Peppers germinate and grow slowly if temps are below 80.

* Loosely cover seedlings with a clear plastic dome (leaving the corner tented open) until first seeds sprout, or if moss begins to grow.

* Use fluorescent (or HPS) lights no more than 1-2 inches above the tops of the leaves for 16 hours a day. Lights will not burn plants. Preferably, use one 40W cool white bulb and one 40W daylight bulb in a 4' fixture with a wide reflector. Lining the reflector with tin foil is not necessary.

* Place a small fan gently blowing across your seedlings for several hours a day to encourage them to strengthen their stems.

* Protect seedlings from bugs. When you bring seedlings outside for the first few times and right after sowing, consider some type of row cover material to keep out the opportunistic bugs (such as flea beetles) that will chew tender leaves.

* Harden off seedlings. Seedlings grown under lights must become slowly acclimated to sunlight before they can be planted in the garden. Start with 30 minutes of shade on day 1, then 1 hour of shade on day 2, then 1 hour of shade and 15 minutes of morning or late afternoon sun on day 3, gradually increasing to full sun on day 8 or 9. 11am-2pm is the hottest part of the day and most likely to damage plants. Damage will not be visible until the next day.


* Note about Dishwashing Soap from Mischka: I recommend anything without antibacterial properties or additives to soften your hands; plain old Palmolive® original green works well, as does Octagon®. There are also several brands that are derived from non-petroleum sources and contain no antibacterial agents or other additives, such as Seventh Generation's Free and Clear®, Method®, Sun and Earth® and Citra-Solv®.