GT,
Thanks for the followup. you had identified yourself as a chemist so I was hoping for a response just like this one.
Ron,
Thanks. Looking forward to it.
FYI - I did end up spraying 2 Septoria infected plants (New Big Dwarf) with a 3% solution made from the 35% food grade H2O2. Then pruned off all the infected growth. The plants were just about done producing so I would not have been concerned it they didn't make it. (and the plants survived just fine)
It worked. Septoria is gone. Now, I don't view this as anything other than an anecdotal result, as it was hardly a controlled experiment, and who knows, with the weather change, pruning and other spraying, the result could have been a combination of factors.
But I should have the opportunity to experiment with it early next season as my neighbor gets Septoria and EB at just about the beginning of every season.
I did find a couple of reviews on Oxidate on this website. Nothing to write home about.
http://www.enviroselects.com/review/...t/list/id/174/
It also gets mentioned, along with Storox, in a fair amount of university papers for organic use, but not a lot of results posted.
I had found a very recent mention here (Aug. 2012)with respect to late blight in Poughkeepsie, NY, but it doesn't appear to have been that effective.
"We have been treating the remaining tomatoes with an organically approved copper fungicide (which is supposed to prevent spores from creating new lesions) and Oxidate (a hydrogen-peroxide like substance that is supposed to kill spores), but we are rapidly coming to the conclusion that the disease has the upper hand and that we may have to take out all the tomatoes, especially since we are weeks from harvest for most of them—more time for the disease to continue to get out of control. We are likely to keep the cherry tomatoes, since they are already ripening. We will only use Oxidate on those, since that leaves no residue on the plants or fruit."
http://farmproject.org/news/2012/08/...t-and-tomatoes