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**carolyn137** · July 24, 2009

The question was asked about what's best to use for Late Blight.

Late Blight is a lethal disease and in a week or so the plants are a stinking mass of black tissue.

At various sites where I post online as well as in the local newspaper there have been alerts and more alerts and descriptions of what it looks like, and anyone can see that by going to Google, selecting IMAGES and typing in Late Blight tomato.

Every single alert here in the NE where the major problem is, from Cornell, from Rutgers, from U of CT and more has said that Daconil is the only product available to home owners that is known to be effective, and it isn't 100% effective at that, no product is.

While I myself prefer to grow as organically as I can, and I haven't used Daconil in many years, I'm using it now b'c the choice for me is to have tomatoes or not, if LB comes my way, and I want tomatoes. I happen to have several varieties I'm growing that only the person who gave me seeds and I have and I want to be able to save seeds as well as taste those varieties.

I'm spraying with copper as well, b'c I have some Bacterial Speck, but copper is not recommended as the sole product to use for Late Blight, even though it is deemed organic by most certifying agencies..

If you choose to use Daconil get a product that has 29.6% chlorothalonil in the concentrate. ortho Disease Control is one such product as is Bonide's Fung-Onil. With both of these one can spray up to the day of harvest for tomatoes.

Many places here in the NE are totally out of those two products but shipments of new stuff should be arriving soon.

So that's my take on facing the Late Blight situation here in the NE right now.

July 24, 2009	#11
carolyn137 Moderator Emeritus Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Upstate NY, zone 4b/5a Posts: 21,169	The question was asked about what's best to use for Late Blight. Late Blight is a lethal disease and in a week or so the plants are a stinking mass of black tissue. At various sites where I post online as well as in the local newspaper there have been alerts and more alerts and descriptions of what it looks like, and anyone can see that by going to Google, selecting IMAGES and typing in Late Blight tomato. Every single alert here in the NE where the major problem is, from Cornell, from Rutgers, from U of CT and more has said that Daconil is the only product available to home owners that is known to be effective, and it isn't 100% effective at that, no product is. While I myself prefer to grow as organically as I can, and I haven't used Daconil in many years, I'm using it now b'c the choice for me is to have tomatoes or not, if LB comes my way, and I want tomatoes. I happen to have several varieties I'm growing that only the person who gave me seeds and I have and I want to be able to save seeds as well as taste those varieties. I'm spraying with copper as well, b'c I have some Bacterial Speck, but copper is not recommended as the sole product to use for Late Blight, even though it is deemed organic by most certifying agencies.. If you choose to use Daconil get a product that has 29.6% chlorothalonil in the concentrate. ortho Disease Control is one such product as is Bonide's Fung-Onil. With both of these one can spray up to the day of harvest for tomatoes. Many places here in the NE are totally out of those two products but shipments of new stuff should be arriving soon. So that's my take on facing the Late Blight situation here in the NE right now. __________________ Carolyn