How do you determine the time to plant?
 

I'd like to get everyone's input on this because I have somewhat of a dillemma. I've got tomato plants that are quickly becoming rootbound, which basically tells me I probably planted my seeds a couple of weeks too early.

I have set out two tomato plants, but am holding off as long as possible on the rest. Its not warm enough yet, at least not consistently, but my plants are outside most of the time anyway. If there is a danger of dropping below 40, they come inside which has only happened once in the last two weeks.

But here is the thing: last I heard the soil temperature was at 56 degrees, maybe slightly cooler now, but like I said, the plants are outside anyway. So is it better to just plant them in the soil or what? My plan was to hold off until May if possible, but that ain't likely gonna happen. Is it better that they are in the ground than have them exposed to cool air above ground?

I know some of you folks, depending on your zone, have already set out plants. Since I moved back to northeast Oklahoma from northeast Kansas, I am not as confident in the rhythm of the climate. But the last year I planted in Kansas it was probably midway through April. I'm not concerned about the frost killing them, just getting them in at the best time possible all things considered.

:|

I am 50 miles south of you in Muskogee and I planted out 2weeks ago and have not covered them till tonight. 34degrees forcast here for tonight and that is too close for comfort. They have experienced no detrimental effects from being left out at 36 or 38 degree nighttime temps. While you will not see growth above ground, the roots are developing constantly and you will get fast growth when the temps reach 70s. I will probably cover tomorrow night also to be safe. I use weather underground for the most accurate forecast .Just type in your zipcode. I think you could plant out anytime after wednesday march 30th. If you wait too late the heat and humidity will effect the fruitset as it did mine last year. You want your plants to have lots of green tomatoes on them by mid May. Many varieties will not set fruit when the temps get above 90 to 95 degrees. Assure yourself the best chance of a good crop by planting as early as possible.

Just my thinking

ron

There is an "Average Last Day Of frost" chart here [URL="http://www.victoryseeds.com/frost/"]http://www.victoryseeds.com/frost/ [/URL]

Although we all know...Mother Nature is a hag and loves to mess with us...:lol:

My average last frost date in Wyoming was May 30 and I had 22 degrees last year on June 9th...*((&*^%%^#^*(&$$#^&)
[URL="http://www.victoryseeds.com/frost/"][/URL]

[quote=brokenbar;206958]There is an "Average Last Day Of frost" chart here [URL="http://www.victoryseeds.com/frost/"]http://www.victoryseeds.com/frost/ [/URL]
[/quote]

I like the chart for Hawaii!

I was planning on waiting until a week or two after the last average frost date, but dipchip's post is motivating me to get them outside sooner!

The updated version of the data that site uses is [URL="http://cdo.ncdc.noaa.gov/cgi-bin/climatenormals/climatenormals.pl?directive=prod_select2&prodtype=CLIM2001&subrnum="]here [/URL]instead of ending in 1980, the newer data is through 2000. The dates given there are based on a 10% chance of a 32 degree or lower night after that date. daves garden has a function where you put in your zip, and get dates for each 10% for 24, 28 and 32 degrees, that match with this, though I haven't found their source. In some cases, you may not be able to wait for that 90% sure it won't freeze date, for example, here, it's a month from 50% sure (april 3) to 90% sure(may 2), most plant at what turns out to be the 30% sure date, in the middle of the 2, april 15. [URL="http://www.climate-charts.com/USA-climate.html"]This site[/URL] has some of the same data in graphical form. I can see there for example, that if I waited until May 2, I'm 90% sure of not getting a frost, but the average high is already up to 80, 2 months later, when I'd expect to start getting tomatoes, it's getting to the peak of summer and the average highs are in the upper 90s.

Here it doesn't seem to be as bad as I read people post about in Texas and Florida though, I'm thinking the dry air helps the plants cool themselves, and fruit sets through all but the worst of summer.
I still haven't figured out how we got powdery mildew on the squash so bad last year though, without much rain or humidity, and drip irrigation.

[QUOTE=kevinrs;206969]The updated version of the data that site uses is [URL="http://cdo.ncdc.noaa.gov/cgi-bin/climatenormals/climatenormals.pl?directive=prod_select2&prodtype=CLIM2001&subrnum="]here [/URL]instead of ending in 1980, the newer data is through 2000. The dates given there are based on a 10% chance of a 32 degree or lower night after that date. daves garden has a function where you put in your zip, and get dates for each 10% for 24, 28 and 32 degrees, that match with this, though I haven't found their source. In some cases, you may not be able to wait for that 90% sure it won't freeze date, for example, here, it's a month from 50% sure (april 3) to 90% sure(may 2), most plant at what turns out to be the 30% sure date, in the middle of the 2, april 15. [URL="http://www.climate-charts.com/USA-climate.html"]This site[/URL] has some of the same data in graphical form. I can see there for example, that if I waited until May 2, I'm 90% sure of not getting a frost, but the average high is already up to 80, 2 months later, when I'd expect to start getting tomatoes, it's getting to the peak of summer and the average highs are in the upper 90s.

Here it doesn't seem to be as bad as I read people post about in Texas and Florida though, I'm thinking the dry air helps the plants cool themselves, and fruit sets through all but the worst of summer.
I still haven't figured out how we got powdery mildew on the squash so bad last year though, without much rain or humidity, and drip irrigation.[/QUOTE]
Thanks Kevin! I never noticed the date and the others are great sites also.

"To plant out or not to plant out" that's the question everyone faces every year!

plant and cover....

they thrive more than you might imagine

[IMG]http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj174/FirstFruitsGarden/May8005.jpg[/IMG]

Up North, MI

[IMG]http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj174/FirstFruitsGarden/Mid%20July%20Garden%202010/July_15_10BYgarden045.jpg[/IMG]

Same plants later

I usually go for when the night time temps are consistently above 50F. I'm incorporating some earthbox's this year so I will probably stick with that.

That does it! I'm planting tomorrow!

I like the plant and cover idea if you have what you need to cover. I have always planted out the middle of February until this year. I used old sheets and blankets to cover my plants and it is a pain in the butt so this year I targeted March 1st as my plant out date.
February 18th while at the nursery I spotted a plant that begged me to take it home. I did and put it in the ground that day. Only had to cover it once.
Today I have 26 tomatoes amongst 16 plants, 20 of them are on that plant that went in early

I try to look at the ten-day forecast and get a consistent warm trend as my window. This year I was conservative and did Feb. 28 --in retrospect, I could've gotten mine out seven to ten days earlier and been fine, but we've been hit with several late snaps the last five years.

I use the averages from prior years and once I see night temps above 45 I next look to my cherry trees to see if the bud is swelling and reading to bloom. Its kinda like watching something walking into your sights but your just not quite ready to pull the trigger. Once the bud blooms I'm ready to plant. Worth has mentioned that down in TX he watches his trees for signs of Early Spring. Last year my tomatoes went out 3/24 to 3/28. This year they are still inside and it Snowed 3/27 and my cherry trees haven't bloomed but others in the area are blooming away.

George

Planted Feb 21 this year. I looked at a two week forecast, but was also influenced by posts here to plant early. It really seems to make a difference and since we have such a short spring window till it is too hot and the stinkbugs come...

Also, my fall crop only died in January. I protected through a few freezes and it wasn't too terrilbe.

It worked out very well this year with tomatoes on most all my plants as of last week. Tremendous difference in the plants my neighbor planted three weeks later.

accuweather.com does have a 15 day forecast, but you have to figure the farther you look, the less accurate. I'm figuring wait until april 1, look at it, as april 15th has been my target, and maybe plant early then.