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-   -   Practical advice on doing crosses.... (http://www.tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=5261)

nctomatoman May 22, 2007 01:44 PM

Practical advice on doing crosses....
 
Yes, I've read the links - Keith's page is particularly informative. However, I want to hear from others of you who have successfully done crosses. I have a few key questions:

How do you know when the flower on the female is ready to have the anther cone removed? Certainly before it opens...can you remove it too soon?

What is the best way to remove the anther cone - fingers, tweezers, etc?

When do open flowers shed pollen - do you just pick off some yellow, open flowers from the male variety, put them in a vial or envelope, let them dry in the sun for a day and the pollen shakes out?

Once you remove the anther cone, how long do you wait until you apply the pollen? Do you apply a bit each day for X days, or just one shot does it?

How long does dried tomato pollen last - can it sit out in a dry area (in the home) for a few days and retain its viability? Or best to refrigerate?

How many flowers do you need to provide a good supply of pollen?

I really do think it is time for me to take the plunge and carry out some crosses - and Dwarf Stone, Lime Green Salad, New Big Dwarf and Golden Dwarf Champion are all about to bloom and provide me with some targets!

Tom Wagner May 23, 2007 03:16 AM

[quote]How do you know when the flower on the female is ready to have the anther cone removed? Certainly before it opens...can you remove it too soon?[/quote]I remove the anthers within hours or a few days priors to pollen shedding. I test out an anther or two by plucking one and tapping it upside down on the inside edge of a clean shot glass or jigger. If there is absolutely no dust at all in the glass you can cross that flower. If there is any dust (pollen) do not use that for applying pollen as it may have already selfed. Yes, you can remove it too soon and then have to come back a few days later to make the cross when the female part is truly ready. Remember stickiness is the clue. Once you remove the anther cone, it is best to pollinate on the spot to avoid cross pollination or sib mating.

[quote] What is the best way to remove the anther cone - fingers, tweezers, etc?[/quote]Tweezers, I use a needle nose tweezers that allows me to poke through the anther cone a bit. My favorite needle nose is one that I accidentally dropped and hook nosed one point. I can either pull the entire cone out at once or an anther at a time.

[quote] When do open flowers shed pollen - do you just pick off some yellow, open flowers from the male variety, put them in a vial or envelope, let them dry in the sun for a day and the pollen shakes out?[/quote]I almost always use fresh flowers,thus fresh pollen immediately before making the crosses. Practice makes perfect. Usually the anther cone is bright yellow and not just yellow green.

[quote] Once you remove the anther cone, how long do you wait until you apply the pollen? Do you apply a bit each day for X days, or just one shot does it?[/quote]Since the pistil, stigma, or whatever you want to call the female part of the flower is receptive to pollen before it makes it own pollen, I cross early, coat the tip of the pistil like a chicken fried steak, and tag. You could come back a day or two later if you wish and re-pollinate. Remember a few facts about the female part of the flower: the entire female part is the pistil, which includes the tip (stigma) stem (style) and fruit (ovary)

[quote] How long does dried tomato pollen last - can it sit out in a dry area (in the home) for a few days and retain its viability? Or best to refrigerate?[/quote]I have ordered tomato pollen in the past thru the mail, so obviously it can keep for a while, sometimes I put pollen in empty gel caps and freeze. But fresh pollen is my want.

[quote] How many flowers do you need to provide a good supply of pollen?[/quote]Many times a single flower, but adverse weather necessitates a few more. Depends on the number of flowers you have to pollinate. The main thing is to totally coat the female tip so that no more pollen will stick. 1st come, first serve, on growing those pollen tubes down the style.

I could be more specific, but why?

Tom Wagner

nctomatoman May 23, 2007 07:32 AM

Perfect - thanks. I think it is time to dive in and give it a try!

Tomstrees May 23, 2007 09:07 AM

Thanks to Craig for posting; and def. thanks to Tom W for replying !

With this kind of information? I'll no longer be a blossom crusher !

~ Tom

celticman May 24, 2007 07:16 AM

Darn helpful, maybe I can actually get this to work.
Celtic

vegomatic June 15, 2007 09:46 PM

Thanks for the info Tom! I've been wanting to do this for some time now. I tried crosses on four plants today.

-Ed

bcday June 15, 2007 10:22 PM

LOL -- I did that, had tons of fun making lots of crosses. Just wait until all these crosses take and next year you have to figure out where you're going to grow them all, LOL. Don't delay, buy that farm now! :P

Some of my F1's came out pretty good, some not so good, some really awful. It's still lots of fun.


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