Lime in Earthbox question
 

Okay, so I just spent about an hour searching, searching...I'm not very successful in my searches here. So I'll just ask, knowing it's quicker as there are so many helpful people here: How much lime should I put in the potting mix for each EB? Specifically, Espoma's? Or is there a better brand?
I've been saving tidbits from reading Marsha's posts here and there (she's The Resident EB Guru), such as calcium nitrate brands, etc. But I can't find anything about the lime.
And what is a general rule of thumb for lime in any container, for that matter?
I'm getting 2 more EBs soon, yippee! :D

What kind of lime are you using? I would only suggest Dolomitic quick acting.
Now, how much, it depends on the soil volume. Ball park figure of one cup per cu-ft (~= 7 to 8 gallons).
Wait for more comments. I could be wrong.

Lime adds to the alkaline balance of PH. What is your PH level?

1 cup of dolomite lime. I get the Sunland brand at HD, 50 lbs for around $5.50. The unsolicited peat has a pH of around 3, the lime is needed. Plus, it also is a calcium source, not just a pH adjuster, to help prevent BER, because in a SWC pot, no calcium containing native soil can be used.
The calcium does take several months to dissolve into the soil though.
1 cup is added every year to replenish.

So Marsha are you saying that if I used dolomite lime, I don't need to get the calcium nitrate?

Here are the instructions that come with/from EarthBox. They say you need to add one pound (1#) dolomite lime initially, and then each year after as well.

Here's the link: [URL="https://earthbox.com/earthbox-pdf/EB-WEB-INSTRUCTIONS_NEW-2.pdf"]https://earthbox.com/earthbox-pdf/EB-WEB-INSTRUCTIONS_NEW-2.pdf[/URL]

According to Espoma, their garden lime, which is pelletized, equals 1 1/3 cups to 1 lb.

According to a conversion site, pulverized lime equals 1 cup to .38 lb., so therefore
1 lb. equals 2.6 cups.

Not sure about the difference in uptake between the pelletized and the pulverized.
I used the pulverized stuff from my local ag. store, which sells a 50# bag for under $5.
They have the pelletized stuff also, that's priced at about $6 for 50#.
Either is cheaper than Espoma, but depends on how much you need.:dizzy:

Earthbox questions
 

Hoping to bump this thread instead of making a new one, and hoping to get Marsha's attention as well :)

I will be using 3 earthboxes this year (new to me). These are from my daughter, she used them last year but didn't have the best results. I plan to use the same potting mix that I will be using in my regular containers (this is also first year to be using this mix), which I am purchasing locally by the yard. It contains osmocote 14 14 14, as well as lime. So, is the osmocote acceptable for the EB? And should I , or not, add a strip of my organic garden tone to it as well?

Secondly am I supposed to add additional lime even though mix contains lime already?

I plan to do as Marsha described above, using calcium nitrate and Epsom salt weekly. Forgive me if these are foolish questions but I don't want to mess it up from the get go.

This is what I read on the EB site:

"Can I use Osmocote® or other time-release fertilizers for the fertilizer strip?"

"No. Time-release, or "coated" fertilizers should not be used. Growing Media that already contains fertilizer is ok to use, but it does not replace the fertilizer strip. You should still add the fertilizer strip as you set-up your EarthBox."
I am confused as to whether or not osmocote is okay as long as it is already in the mix and not used as the fertilizer strip....help :surprised::?!?::o

Thanks anyone (Marsha are you out there) :?:

If the osmocote is already in the mix, it does not eliminate the need to add a fertilizer strip as directed. Add the garden tone in a strip as directed. It is pretty specific and straightforward in that instruction.

You should also follow directions and add lime as indicated in the instructions for setting up the box. The lime in your soil mix should be dolomite lime.

Once the soil pH is regulated, there is no need to add anymore Calcium. And the element Calcium itself (as trace element) stays around . Plus, tomato plants do not use calcium asb they do N, P , K.
JMO

The dolomite lime is a substitute for calcium nitrate + magnesium sulfate.
Now the problem is the pH raise. Growing media is almost surely pH adjusted, no one is selling you peat at pH 4 (unless otherwise specified for special purposes). The amount of ph raise is probably not that high to cause problems, otherwise they wouldn't recommend it.
What must be taken in consideration is also the irrigation water. If one uses tap water, generally it has a pretty hefty amount of calcium carbonate (and not much Mg). In this case you probably will end up with high ph in time.

I would personally just use the sulfate and nitrate, they're easily soluble, can be added at any time and have a fast effect. The Ca requirements of tomatoes are high, higher than P for example, most hydro formulas use obscene amounts of it, and peppers love calcium nitrate.

Not sure why they don't like osmocote, maybe it's too slow release for the purpose (considering the fertilizer sits somewhat close to the top, so there's not much water flow through it from the bottom irrigation).

[QUOTE=jillian;691610]Hoping to bump this thread instead of making a new one, and hoping to get Marsha's attention as well :)

I will be using 3 earthboxes this year (new to me). These are from my daughter, she used them last year but didn't have the best results. I plan to use the same potting mix that I will be using in my regular containers (this is also first year to be using this mix), which I am purchasing locally by the yard. It contains osmocote 14 14 14, as well as lime. So, is the osmocote acceptable for the EB? And should I , or not, add a strip of my organic garden tone to it as well?

Secondly am I supposed to add additional lime even though mix contains lime already?

I plan to do as Marsha described above, using calcium nitrate and Epsom salt weekly. Forgive me if these are foolish questions but I don't want to mess it up from the get go.

This is what I read on the EB site:

"Can I use Osmocote® or other time-release fertilizers for the fertilizer strip?"

"No. Time-release, or "coated" fertilizers should not be used. Growing Media that already contains fertilizer is ok to use, but it does not replace the fertilizer strip. You should still add the fertilizer strip as you set-up your EarthBox."
I am confused as to whether or not osmocote is okay as long as it is already in the mix and not used as the fertilizer strip....help :surprised::?!?::o

Thanks anyone (Marsha are you out there) :?:[/QUOTE]

I would also add the strip of organic tone, because osmocote is so slow releasing and you don't know that there's enough for tomatoes which are heavy feeders. Is this a true potting mix and not a potting soil? Because that's what you need for an earthbox.
To be on the safe side I would probably still add one half cup of dolomite lime, or otherwise known as Garden lime per earthbox mixed in very well. You just don't know that they've given you enough lime in your pre mix.
I use Pro mix BX which also has lime already in it and I always add additional lime, at the rate of 1 full cup per earthbox.
For those who have said that it's only a pH adjustment and that the lime takes the place of the calcium nitrate and magnesium sulfate, I would respectfully dispute this. Especially that first year, that lime has not dissolved into the mix well enough, and you will end up with blossom end rot on a susceptible tomato plant, even with the addition of extra lime, until it has several months to dissolve and absorb into the potting mix. I also find that my production increases many many fold by the addition of one teaspoon of calcium nitrate, and 1/3 teaspoon of Epsom salt, / once a week, down the earthbox tube. This is not only adjusting the pH but also giving a tremendous amount of blossoming at the right time, and it increases my yield. I learned this from AK mark, and Ricky Shaw, both are fabulous growers.
The calcium nitrate is a soluble and ready form of calcium while the Dolomite lime is still dissolving, and the magnesium sulfate is given so that the calcium nitrate does not cause a magnesium deficiency.
Those who growing earthbox understand that they are very very different than growing in the soil.

[QUOTE=zipcode;691639]The dolomite lime is a substitute for calcium nitrate + magnesium sulfate.
Now the problem is the pH raise. Growing media is almost surely pH adjusted, no one is selling you peat at pH 4 (unless otherwise specified for special purposes). The amount of ph raise is probably not that high to cause problems, otherwise they wouldn't recommend it.
What must be taken in consideration is also the irrigation water. If one uses tap water, generally it has a pretty hefty amount of calcium carbonate (and not much Mg). In this case you probably will end up with high ph in time.

I would personally just use the sulfate and nitrate, they're easily soluble, can be added at any time and have a fast effect. The Ca requirements of tomatoes are high, higher than P for example, most hydro formulas use obscene amounts of it, and peppers love calcium nitrate.

Not sure why they don't like osmocote, maybe it's too slow release for the purpose (considering the fertilizer sits somewhat close to the top, so there's not much water flow through it from the bottom irrigation).[/QUOTE]

Just wanted you to know that I have tested the pH on brand new wetted Promix BX, and it had a pH of around 3.5. It comes with the dolomite lime included. So I respectfully would like to dispute your statement that growing media is almost surely pH adjusted.

Thanks for the tip about calcium nitrate and epsom salt. I always have good results
in my earthboxes, but I can always use more pepper production.

[QUOTE=ginger2778;691656]Just wanted you to know that I have tested the pH on brand new wetted Promix BX, and it had a pH of around 3.5. It comes with the dolomite lime included. So I respectfully would like to dispute your statement that growing media is almost surely pH adjusted.[/QUOTE]

From the promix site:

'As a general rule, it takes approximately seven days after the growing medium is watered in during planting before the limestone is activated and the pH stabilizes, reaching the intended pH.'

Thanks so much everyone for your input.

Marsha, the potting medium is indeed a potting mix, there is no soil. I grow in various types of containers/bags so I fully understand that soil in containers is a big no-no. Sometimes I will add some of my own compost to the containers especially as the season progresses and the mix settles, with good results. Of course I will not be doing so with the earthboxes.

Thanks so much for explaining what you do. The proof is in your tremendous success and the seeds you graciously offer each year.

I will add the organic fertilizer strip along with 1/2 cup of lime at planting. Then the calcium nitrate and Epsom salt weekly.

I am so eager to get out there and start planting, hopefully in a couple weeks it will happen! I began working on a new raised bed last year and it's ready. I haven't grown much in ground here so this will surely be interesting.

Thank you all and Happy Growing!

Jillian