The New EarthTainer III "Convertible" Guide Now Available
 

After a good run with the EarthTainer II Guide, I have made numerous improvements to the design, simplifying the construction process, and reducing scrap down to a 1 inch piece:

[IMG]http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af179/rnews/IMG_0208-1.jpg[/IMG]

The dual-wall should keep the plant's roots in a more moderate temperature range, and the air "vents" down the sidewalls will bring better air circulation into the Aeration Bench.

Most important has been the adaption of a commonly available Pea Fence, which has the proper aspect ratio for the 31 gallon EarthTainer. With a few bends, the 62 inch cage system simply slides onto the rim (after planting):

[IMG]http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af179/rnews/IMG_2155.jpg[/IMG]


And is held in place by 12 compression anchor-points:

[IMG]http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af179/rnews/IMG_2158.jpg[/IMG]

The cage folds flat at the end of the Season for easy storage

[IMG]http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af179/rnews/IMG_0914.jpg[/IMG]

So, here it is in finished form. Takes about one hour to build:

[IMG]http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af179/rnews/IMG_2165.jpg[/IMG]

Here is the direct link to the new Guide:

[URL]http://earthtainer.tomatofest.com/pdfs/EarthTainer-Construction-Guide.pdf[/URL]

Raybo:D:D:D

Very impressive. I love these self watering containers. I might have to try building one of these new and improved EarthTainers :)

Very nice Ray! I love the double wall, definitely going to help with temps which is a really good thing! Well done! I might just have to make me one soon:surprised: .

Damon

Like the double wall also,...it's like the pot in a pot approach I've heard nurseries use in hot climates. Have you been able to measure how much cooler the temps stay?

[quote=chalstonsc;194347]Like the double wall also,...it's like the pot in a pot approach I've heard nurseries use in hot climates. Have you been able to measure how much cooler the temps stay?[/quote]

Not yet. But if you look at the "gaps" between the sidewalls, it should give fairly good isolation along a lot of the surface area. While some of this will compress near the top with the Grow Media installed, I believe even without an air gap, the double thickness will be a positive thing.

[IMG]http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af179/rnews/IMG_0206.jpg[/IMG]

I am also of the view that air exchange under the Aeration Bench will be better with the gaps between the containers.

I really liked the idea of only having to throw a one inch wide strip into the Recycle Bin, rather than 2/3'rds of the second container, which was the case with the EarthTainer II design.:yes:

Well, I've already found 2 minor typos when re-reading it for the seventh time, (see if you can find them:oops:), so will be posting an updated version with these fixed in a few days (after I re-read it for the eighth time).:dizzy:

Raybo

Ray

Very nice! I nominate you for an oscar in the veggie world!

Ray,

I love the new design! I bought some rugged totes a few weeks ago (on sale!) to build my first set of containers, and I'm glad I held off until now.

I also wish I were half as diligent as you when it comes to proofreading my writing!

You have a few punctuation errors too raybo.

"own, quality organic vegetables" mis-use of a comma.


DarJones

I see a lot of posts about the use of Earth Tainers for tomato plants, but can they be used for other vegetables as well? I have limited space for vine crops, and am wondering if this would work for cantaloupe, or not????

[quote=Fusion_power;194376]You have a few punctuation errors too raybo.

"own, quality organic vegetables" mis-use of a comma.


DarJones[/quote]

Thanks. I really would like to find someone who could more professionally format the Guide, and use better grammar (not my strong suit). I did the Guide in simple Word, and I am sure there are better programs to use to make the document more readable. Any volunteers out there??????

Mark,

I've grown Peppers, cucumbers, corn, and Snow Peas in them:

[IMG]http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af179/rnews/IMG_2048.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af179/rnews/IMG_0313.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af179/rnews/IMG_0204-1.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af179/rnews/IMG_0255.jpg[/IMG]

Raybo:D

Ray,

Step 11 in construction is the drain hole i believe? How big a hole are you drilling and one on each end?

[quote=troad;194400]Ray,

Step 11 in construction is the drain hole i believe? How big a hole are you drilling and one on each end?[/quote]

troad,

This is what the Guide says:

"""Step 11: On the outer container (#1) make a mark at the center of the short (handle) sides 3-7/8 inches up from the bottom. Rotate the container and repeat on the other center of the short side."""

Yes, these are the two overflow holes. Thanks for pointing out that I should include the purpose of the two holes, as well as I need to add to use a 3/8" drill.

In looking at the Word document just now, it appears that the page-break "ate" this sentence. I have now added it back in. Thanks.

Excellent catch!!!:yes:

Raybo

HI Raybo,
Thanks once again for all your hard work in putting together this new 'tainer version. I am not sure if I have any more room to put them in the backyard, lol.
For the fertilizer strip, Picture frame or two strips?

Other vegetables success stories in the Earthtainer: daikon radish.
I have struggled for years trying to find a means to grow them but they bolt because of the temperature swings we have and our soils are too cold to promote good growth.
I put the fertilizer strip down the middle and plant a row of daikon radish on either side.

Jeff

Jeff,

Personal preference, I guess - - but I am now using two fertilizer strips along the front and back sides, about 3 inches in from the walls, and about 3 inches deep. I place one Cup of TomatoTone in each strip, then cover and slightly water in. Having said that, now without the cage getting in the way in the new design, I may experiment with the picture-frame application again, as this would seem to provide the best distribution of the fertilizer.

Again this Season, I will be trialing various fertilizers such as FloraMato to see which works best. I hope in about 5 years of trials, to get it down pat.;)

Glad to hear about your success with the Radishes. Post some photos when you can.

Raybo:D

Hi Ray, I looked at your plans and you have one to one and a half bags off wet soil mixture only supported by two bolts mounted in soft malleable plastic. I don't think that will work for very long, especially when moving them. Just to be safe I'd add six to eight pvc pipes the height of the pond filter to take the load off the two bolts.

Tony,

Most of the support comes from the assembly that sits below the Aeration Bench. These two pieces are bolted together using four 1/4"x20 machine screws and washers. It forms a pretty rigid structure in this configuration. The four corners, and the handle areas are especially strong when you sit the Aeration Bench on them.

[IMG]http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af179/rnews/IMG_0154.jpg[/IMG]

The two bolts in the upper Aeration bench do provide support, but only in a secondary capacity.

Raybo;)

Wow! Those veggie (corn, peppers, cukes & snow peas) plants look great.

I wanted to let anyone considering constructing some ET3s that the Gurney's promotional offer of by $50 worth of stuff for $25 (as mentioned in this guide) is going to expire in 48 hours according to an email they just sent me. So...if you're on the (pea) fence, time commit and get those orders in now. Two pea fences and one pack of seeds is about $51 and then you get the $25 discount, which more than covers the shipping costs, at least it did for shipping to Texas. I'm thinking about ordering more, just in case I decide to build more than I've already ordered.

Raybo:

Ace online is selling Premier Horticulture 0432P General Purpose Plant Growing Pro Mix with Mycorize 3.8 CF for $25.99 for the 3.8 CV bag, but the shipping is more than the 65 pound bag costs, so a local source will be necessary. It appears to be the one you recommend in the guide, but already containing Mycorize.

Do you have any idea how far a 3.8 cf bag will go? I assume you are still mixing your own soil in a 3,2,1 or some other variant?

Dewayne,

Just some round numbers. Assuming the EarthTainer III holds approx. 3 cu. ft., then with the 3:2:1 Combo Mix ratio, each 'Tainer would need 1.5 cu. ft. Pro-Mix, 1.0 cu. ft. of Bark Fines, and 0.5 cu. ft. of Perlite.

Call around to some Hydroponics Shops as they most likely carry Pro-Mix. Also, larger full service Nurseries may also carry it. Or you could call the Pro-Mix folks directly and see which stores sell it in the DFW area.

Raybo;)

ray
two evanley spaced bolts on euther side would give much more support
there would very little sageing if the bolts where about 1 inch up from
the bottom of the earthtainer with the potting mix, regards.

les

[quote=les matzek;200961]ray
two evanley spaced bolts on euther side would give much more support
there would very little sageing if the bolts where about 1 inch up from
the bottom of the earthtainer with the potting mix, regards.

les[/quote]

Sorry Les, but I disagree with your changing the location of the 2 bolts to the bottom of the EarthTainer for 2 reasons.

First, the 2 bolts play a minor role in supporting the inner container piece. It is really the Aeration Bench support assembly that holds up the inner container. Here is a photo of 2 EarthTainers, one with no upper bolts (top), and with the 2 bolts in the top portion 2 inches from the rim (bottom):

[IMG]http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af179/rnews/IMG_2292.jpg[/IMG]

As is clearly demonstrated with 175 pounds of water held in each, the one with the 2 upper bolts restrains the sidewalls from bowing out.

Second, the new feature of the EarthTainer III design is that the "container-within-a-container" now functions like a thermos bottle whereby the sidewalls have an air gap between much of the internal surface area. Moving the 2 bolts to the bottom area would both distort the shape of the two containers then being pulled together, as well as remove the desired air gap.

Keeping the 2 bolts near the top of the design is where they are best located:

[IMG]http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af179/rnews/IMG_1574.jpg[/IMG]

After the EarthTainer I, then the EarthTainer II, I have really studied the design, construction material selection, and other metrics to develop a system that is near optimal.

Raybo

Has anybody tried a airstone in the bottom, to oxygenate the water.

[quote=skinwins;200996]Has anybody tried a airstone in the bottom, to oxygenate the water.[/quote]

skin,

That is one of the trials I had intended to run a year ago. I even have the ozone generator sitting in the storage cabinet.

My intent was to embed an Airstone within each 'Tainer's water reservoir, then run a manifold array of 1/2" tubing to each one. I was going to run the ozone generator an hour per week, to start with.

Just had other activities like the cage change-out on my 20 EarthTainer II systems, over to the new removable cages, as the higher priority this year. :?:

Perhaps next Season.

Raybo

Last year I was adding several gallons of water to each earthtainer every day. The water never had a chance to get stagnant. I don't think an airstone would be productive.

duck,

You are probably on to something. With lots of water "flow-through", oxygenation may not be necessary, as it is for an aquarium, for example. I am now more concerned about salts buildup in the Combo Mix over time, so that is why in the Guide, I am recommending periodic use of Clearex to "flush" the Combo Mix.:yes:

[IMG]http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af179/rnews/clearex.jpg[/IMG]

My concept with the ozone generator was that it *might* accelerate root development with the injection of more oxygen. Another Myth-Busters Challenge for next Season!

Raybo

Ray- I started doing a flush last year with all my SWC's. Good to see you on the 'flush' train finally, I think its really important as I stressed this last year in a thread. The Clearex is exactly what I used last year.

Damon

Damon,

What frequency of application did you find most effective? Weekly, monthly, ???

Raybo:?!?:

wasn't adding oxygen because of stagnation, I have grow many different styles of hydro and oxygenated water is the most important part of hydro. plants need the oxygen and thrive when you increase the levels. Maybe i'll build 2 of the tubs and oxygenate one of them to see any differences there might be. I'm growing bell peppers right now for my g/f in a nice dwc(deep water culture) set up. great quick results. Plus it would also be moving air up and out threw the double wall which might aid in cooling. indoors I have also cooled the air pump which cools the air being pumped into the water which will cool the water in the res.

[quote=duckfan;201003]Last year I was adding several gallons of water to each earthtainer every day. The water never had a chance to get stagnant. I don't think an airstone would be productive.[/quote]

Raybo- I flushed my tomatoes with the Clearex once last year around late mid season. Per the advice of my good hydro buddy I poured the flush from the top and removed the excess/drainage out of the reservoir after allowing to fully drain. I think it all depends on the fertilizing schedule. The more often you fertilize the more often you might want to flush. I under fertilized most of my stuff in SWC's last year and had to supplement with FP or MG so I didn't see the need to flush more than once.

On a side, did you hear about the northern arctic storm coming later this week? They say its going to get really cold here with a slight chance of snow. :shock:

Damon