Wilt, Blight, What is this???
 

I have searched through the pictures and posts and just seem to get more and more confused. I can't determine whether it is early blight, fusarium wilt , spotted wilt virus, etc. etc. etc. Could someone take a look at these pictures and give me a place to start? I have had a few aphids, but they seem to be backing off., so I haven't sprayed safer soap in a couple of weeks. I try to keep them watered, but not overwatered, I have a good many tomatoes coming on-but note the picture of one I found today with the black underside. Any and all suggestions much appreciated. THANKS!

The tomato has blossom-end rot BER.

Leaves look like early blight, although I don't see the concentric rings in the lesions.
Tomato looks like blossom end rot.

Are you using a fungicide? This would help the blight, but not the BER.

[QUOTE=Nematode;647179]Leaves look like early blight, although I don't see the concentric rings in the lesions.
Tomato looks like blossom end rot.

Are you using a fungicide? This would help the blight, but not the BER.[/QUOTE]

I have only used Oxidate one time this year. Should I do it more? BER-should I maybe dress the plants with epsom salts? I planted them with a little of that back in April when I planted them. What kind of fungicide would y'all suggest? I try to go organic as much as possible.

[SIZE="4"][/SIZE]If it's early blight someone else can chime in here.....

Copper octanoate
Daconil.
Neither are organic.
It's almost too late once symptoms appear. The home garden remedies are preventative not curative.

BER is usually a calcium deficiency or watering problem. Too wet, or uneven.

Very severe early blight. The tomato has BER, the plant will outgrow that. Better get the copper spray going as soon as you trim off and bag up mist of those infected leaves. Use the WEAKEST recommended dose of copper in your spray, it will be plenty strong enough. Too strong will stunt new leaf growth and put you back 3 weeks delayed. If it looks blue on your leaves it is too strong. Be thorough under and over the leaves and all of the stem down to the soil line. Then every 7 days repeat as a preventive.

Epsom salts is magnesium sulfate, it doesn't have any calcium in it, it therefore won't help the BER. You can put in calcium nitrate(Calcinit), or just evenly water and wait for the plant to grow out of it, which it will.

Thanks very much. I appreciate it.

Looks like it could be drought stress, too. Sometimes, it's hard to tell apart old drought stress from EB.

[QUOTE=gorbelly;648266]Looks like it could be drought stress, too. Sometimes, it's hard to tell apart old drought stress from EB.[/QUOTE]

I agree, a lot of that looks like drought stress. If there's EB in there, I can't see any of the lesions up close enough to say.

[QUOTE=RayR;648278]I agree, a lot of that looks like drought stress. If there's EB in there, I can't see any of the lesions up close enough to say.[/QUOTE]
I don't know, we've had a good bit of rain lately, almost too wet really. Thank you, though, I guess that is something to keep in mind. Thanks!

[QUOTE=Nematode;647189]
Copper octanoate
Daconil.
Neither are organic.[/QUOTE]

Copper octanoate formulations are frequently OMRI listed, so it can be organic.

[QUOTE=ginger2778;647190]Better get the copper spray going as soon as you trim off and bag up mist of those infected leaves. Use the WEAKEST recommended dose of copper in your spray, it will be plenty strong enough. Too strong will stunt new leaf growth and put you back 3 weeks delayed. If it looks blue on your leaves it is too strongl.[/QUOTE]

I use copper octanoate at the standard recommended dilution and there is always a bluish residue on my leaves, and I have never had problems with stunting of any kind on my tomatoes until I had an herbicide drift incident from my neighbor this year. I know it was herbicide that was the problem because it also took down my peas and my neighbor's hawthorn bush, neither of which were sprayed with any copper at all.

I suspect it matters what kind of copper you use.

[QUOTE=Southbound;648285]I don't know, we've had a good bit of rain lately, almost too wet really. Thank you, though, I guess that is something to keep in mind. Thanks![/QUOTE]

Well...if it's Early Blight there will be a well defined concentric circle pattern (I'm not talking about a perfect circle by any means) in the brown lesions.
If that symptom is not there then then it could be a similar looking fungal pathogen like Tomato Leaf Mold (Fulvia Fulva). If it is a fungal pathogen then there should be the signs of sporulation, fuzzy growth or tiny structures growing on the the bottom of the leaf within the brown lesion and you may need magnification to see it.

Drought Stress symptoms are not limited to a lack of water in the soil, for the plant to move water and nutrients up from the roots requires water vapor to exit the leaves through transpiration. Things that can hinder water movement and normal transpiration are overly wet soil or very high humidity or both. The reduction of movement of water and nutrients in the plant. especially like the less mobile Calcium would account for the severe BER on the fruit.
Sometimes you've got to look at all the nitty gritty details of what's going on with the plant, the environmental conditions and your own cultural practices to determine what the problem or problems are. Sometimes you can have more than one problem at the same time.:dizzy:

Are you growing in containers?

Also, did you get that week of hot, dry weather we got up here?

Looks like some are early blight. I assume those are piles of discarded leafs, so probably not so bad overall. The first pictures look like old leaves. They just get yellow with age usually because they don't have exposure to light and the plants just cuts them off, and then they get moldy because they're dead.

It also looks like you may have some gray mold going on there also. The copper spray will help with that or the bleach spray which I prefer then follow up with a copper spray.

Bill