Miracle Grow Moisture Control
 

I am going to plant a bunch of toms in containers (not SWCs) and am unsure about the soil. Right now Miracle Grow's Moisture Control potting mix is inexpensive at Costco, and I was hoping to use that.

Should I mix it with other substances (bark fines/pearlite) or is it ok on its own? Doing research on the forums I found this recipe:
3 parts potting mix
2p bark fines
1 p pearlite
opinions?

Is there any reason I should not use moisture control for tomatoes, but should make my own mix instead?

I plan on growing dwarfs and Stupice in 5 gal containers. I am also growing Black Sea Man in larger (10-15+ gal) containers.

Most people recommend not using moisture control MG. Use the regular MG potting mix without moisture control.

2 years ago I did the same thing as Costo did not carry the regular potting mix and planted all my tomato pots (non SWC) with the moisture control potting mix and will never do that again plants did poorly. I would recomend using the potting mix without moisture control for your tomato plants. I can get the non moisture control mix at our local Fleet Farm for about the same price and that has worked better for me.

Craig

What Craig says.

Plus, even in non-SWC container applications, I would still use the "3:2:1" Combo Mix. Otherwise, you are going to end up with "goop" midway through the Season (no aeration to the roots).

Raybo;)

If I can't find bark fines, is sphagnum peat moss a reasonable replacement?

I can find peat moss, vermiculite, pearlite, and MC (non-moisture) at my local hardware shop.

[quote=BlackestKrim;199497]If I can't find bark fines, is sphagnum peat moss a reasonable replacement?

I can find peat moss, vermiculite, pearlite, and MC (non-moisture) at my local hardware shop.[/quote]

No. Peat moss is not at all a replacement for bark fines. It will REALLY gum up your containers.

I have to believe somewhere in Austin you can find small pine or other bark. Check Home Depot. If all else fails, try a mix with Clay Soil Conditioner to see if the total mix is light and airy. You want microscopic "channels" for the air to get to the roots - - much like worms provide with in-ground growing. You need to simulate this environment in containers if you want a happy outcome. Earl taught me that a LONG time ago.....

Raybo:yes:

[quote=BlackestKrim;199497]If I can't find bark fines, is sphagnum peat moss a reasonable replacement?

I can find peat moss, vermiculite, pearlite, and MC (non-moisture) at my local hardware shop.[/quote]

Of those, the perlite would be closest in that it does not hold water and creates air space (albeit smaller voids than the bark fines), reduces density and creates drainage. Vermiculite holds some moisture plus you should get the kind made for horticulture and not swimming pool construction.

But the fines have their place and specific function in the mixes Ray and others formulate that are hard to duplicate exactly with other materials.

Some mulches can have some similar characteristics in terms of drainage but many are too coarse, sometimes because the shredders were not sharp enough. Any wood will increase C:N ratios in the near term but the source of the wood (heartwood versus sapwood versus bark) makes a difference to what ratio you wind up with in the mix.

Having said that, nature will adjust things the way it likes them pretty much regardless of what you or I do.

I was not able to find a bark fines source nearby, but the local hardware stores have a "native hardwood mulch" that seems to work- the mix is small, shredded bits and seems to be partially composted.

I made the 3-2-1 mix with this and could really feel the difference- very light and well-draining. As I was potting out some plants into the new mix, I could really feel the difference; the potting soil I was taking them out of was already dense and soppy.

Now I just need to find a cheaper source of Pearlite that the 8 qt bags they have at Home Despot.

Can you check with the Mill and verify what you bought was made from the Bark - and not the core wood. Reason is that the core wood contains resins, and other bad elements that could actually harm the plant.:panic:

For larger quantities of Perlite, go to either a full service Nursery for a 2 cubic foot bag ($10.00); or better yet, go to a Hydroponics Store (ALL of them sell it) where you can get the cheaper stuff at about $17.00 for a 4 cubic foot bag.

I am worried about the wood chips you used. :o

Raybo

Well, I only used the wood shreds in a few pots. I'll monitor how they do.

Austin [I]does [/I]have tons of hydroponic stores. I've always been cautious of going there, because I wonder if cops will show up at my house in a few months looking for pot! They don't seem to have bark fines, but perhaps these [URL="http://www.texashydroponics.com/shop/product.php?productid=3334&cat=138&page=1"]coco chips[/URL] would work? I am afraid cocoa chips sequester too much water- this element's function is supposed to be to provide aeration for roots.


[URL]http://www.austinwoodrecycling.com/[/URL]
They make the hardwood mulch and such out of the brush piles people put out for trash, so I'm sure it is a combination of branches and actual trunk wood.
They say the mulch is aged 9-15 months... would that be enough time for resins to break down? The mixture did appear partially composted.

B-K,

The cocoa shells *may* absorb too much moisture. I don't have any experience with them, however. At $7.50 per cubic foot, I would think you could find a less expensive alternative. Did you look for this at Home Depot:

[IMG]http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af179/rnews/IMG_0166.jpg[/IMG]

They ought to carry something in small decorative bark. This is about the particle size you want:

[IMG]http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af179/rnews/IMG_0165.jpg[/IMG]

Print this photo and take it to a full service Nursery.

If all else fails, I am told Reptile Bark sold in Pet Stores will also work - but in large quantities, it is expensive. Shop around.

Raybo;)

What does MG potting soil at costcos cost?
 

what does MG at Costcos' cost? We have been using home depot's ultralite top soil and mixing it with dehydrated manure and some fertilizer. Anyone try this?

Update:
I have found that the Happygro compost at Lowe's is a good substitute for bark fines. It is light and fluffy and the particles are of the right size. I think it would make crappy compost, but it makes great bark fines substitute. It is not on the Lowe's website so perhaps it is only carried in certain stores.

The Miracle Gro at my Costco is all of the Moisture-control variety, and thu not desirable for tomatoes.

My local Menards always has an excellent price on regular Miracle Gro potting mix - their largest bag has usually been almost half the cost as what Home Depot has been selling it for.

My one attempt with Moisture Control was not a good thing. It was fine for my flower pots in front of my house, but for tomatoes, it just would not even slightly dry out. It was like a swamp in there.

What do they use for their moisture control in the Miracle Grow? The reason I ask is down here where it is so hot I use water retaining crystals in my mix for containers and since using it my plants have done much better. I even apply some each season to my raised beds. Since using it I have had far less splitting of tomatoes after heavy rains and it has cut my watering by about one third. Before using the crystals my plants in containers never lived very long and were always unhealthy looking. It is very hard to get out and water containers twice a day during the really hot summer months. That is why I have soaker hoses in my raised beds with water crystals and heavy mulch. Heck if it wasn't for fusarium wilt, early and late blight, TSWV, other leaf spots, aphids, white flies, spider mites, hornworms, stink bugs, hail, high winds, high humidity, flooding rains and droughts it would be really easy to grow tomatoes here. :)) :)) :))