Fungal? Orange Yellow leaves
 

I gave a foliar feeding of Kellogg Fish/kelp concentrate Monday or Tuesday and thought I was getting a slight burn even though I did it at night. out of 15-18 plants 12 have healthy thick stems and the others have either thin stems or thin foliage. A friend told me this is fungal. I have Serenade and just sprayed with copper.

I'm scared bc todays rain into night seems to be spreading something to some of the healthy plants.

Please help.

These pictures are from today. The last one is just to show a healthier plant with just a few yellow leaves, and an overall view of the garden.

Thanks in Advance
-Charlie

That black branch is suspicious of something like late blight, cut it off and keep an eye on it.
The yellowing is hard to say, it looks like the leaf first died than it was attacked by a fungus (classic problem), but I'm not sure why.

Thanks zip code. That’s one of the plants i think i’m Going to scrap. I just thought i’d Put the photo here in case it revealed a bigger problem
-Charlie

[QUOTE=Guavatone;741104]

[IMG]http://tomatoville.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=88824&stc=1&d=1562911319[/IMG]

[/QUOTE]

This looks dangerous. If it starts spreading quickly it could be late blight.

Yellow lower leaves are not unusual, remove them and consider using baking soda or bleach spray.

That is probably just some gray mold. Either spray with a copper spray or the bleach spray and it shouldn't be a problem if it is just starting. Is that a black tomato variety?
If it is it is almost certainly gray mold. Late Blight usually starts much higher up the plant at least it always has when I have been hit by it. If I had that few yellow leaves each year I would be very happy. Just remove them along with any other damaged or diseased leaves when you first spot them and apply a fungicide to lessen the severity of new diseases coming along.

Bill

I have that on a lot of plants and usually do every year - it is just a lot worse this year:( and hope it gets better!! I pick the leaves off, use bleach, baking soda, and fungicide but am worried and hope it stops!!:( I have picked off roughly 3 bushels of leaves from 100 plants. I always thought it was early blight:?!?:
Pete

Thanks. I will post better pictures soon. Right now I have a wasp swarm trying to nest outside my door a few feet from garden.

I’m finding it hard to take proper photos that depict 3 dimension and the full story. I was vigilant with fungicides - Copper then serenade in May-June rains. But I shifted to pests with thuricide and spinosad. Then after a Foliar Feeding I started to see more funny leaf issues. Even last nights storms made things worse I think.

Yup, mine are still turning yellow on some plants. Don't know if a wet spring, old wood mulch, or what that makes it worse this year. I think the wasps lay their eggs on the tomato worms and kills them? But a nest near the house gotta deal with that I guess.
Attached are photo's from all sides of house and the different plant sizes that have been affected by whatever:(:?!?:.
Remember I just picked dead stuff off so what you see is what I missed:evil: You have to look close on the Micro Dwarf and the Olive Hill .....

Pete

Sorry about the sideways - can't figure how to correct it.

Here are more, I wonder if the Cucumber has the same thing?

I think I’m gonna hit them with aspirin water tonight

This place rocks! Thanks for sharing your photos. I use a Mac app to make them smaller and automatically flips them.

Is that like 2 325 mg tabs per gallon?

[url]http://www.plantea.com/plant-aspirin.htm[/url]

This one says 325mg per gallon

[url]http://www.tomatoville.com/showthread.php?p=445101[/url]

[url]https://www.pennlive.com/gardening/2009/12/aspirin_water_for_plant_diseas.html[/url]

My research shows 200-500 mg per gallon and any more than 2x 325mg is dangerous. And make sure it’s uncoated.


Why don’t you remove those lower yellow leaves on the cucumber? Seems like a lot of foliage already

Ami has a rant here about disease prevention. I think daconil.

Never have removed Cuke leaves before - but I guess why not! I'll do it.......
Pete

Pete i’m No pro.

[url]https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/vegetables/cucumber/pruning-cucumber-plants.htm[/url]

I forget if cucumbers are prone to vine borers. So maybe it’s not a good idea

[QUOTE=Guavatone;741104]I gave a foliar feeding of Kellogg Fish/kelp concentrate Monday or Tuesday and thought I was getting a slight burn even though I did it at night. out of 15-18 plants 12 have healthy thick stems and the others have either thin stems or thin foliage. A friend told me this is fungal. I have Serenade and just sprayed with copper.

I'm scared bc todays rain into night seems to be spreading something to some of the healthy plants.

Please help.

These pictures are from today. The last one is just to show a healthier plant with just a few yellow leaves, and an overall view of the garden.

Thanks in Advance
-Charlie[/QUOTE]

Picture #4 is the soil/mix is too wet. That does narrow the problems down some. What exactly it is - I don't know, but it needs a lot less water. My opinion, don't water it until it needs it. Get rid of the leaves that look bad. The bleach spray wouldn't hurt.

Thanks.. Wow! Everyone’s saying bleach. Tspn/gallon? Bleach scares me... it really works?

I thought too much water was slightly yellow? Are you sure it’s #4?

They seem happy with last nights Foliar aspirin.

Yep, picture #4 shows bumps on the stem. They are called 'root initials'. If the stem was to touch soil/mix, those bumps would grow roots. It's an easy way to see overwatering.

Great tip. Thanks salt. I thought you were going by the shriveled up leaves. I guess I need to let the containers get dry to the verge of wilting.

Do hairs on the stems also mean too much water?

Fungal?

[QUOTE=b54red;741117]That is probably just some gray mold. Either spray with a copper spray or the bleach spray and it shouldn't be a problem if it is just starting. Is that a black tomato variety?
If it is it is almost certainly gray mold. Late Blight usually starts much higher up the plant at least it always has when I have been hit by it. If I had that few yellow leaves each year I would be very happy. Just remove them along with any other damaged or diseased leaves when you first spot them and apply a fungicide to lessen the severity of new diseases coming along.

Bill[/QUOTE]



Thanks Bill. It’s not black. I think it may be moskvich or cosmonaut volkov

I have a plant 3-4 feet away having similar wilt. And still getting yellow/orange on middle branches on 1-2 and haven’t watered since Thursday rain

Early blight and/or septoria - happens every year in humid, warm areas. Best to just remove blemished foliage, space plants appropriately. If you keep up with it, it doesn't kill plants. But the spores are on the backside of the foliage and can spread.

Thanks NC! I think i’m Going to follow Bill’s advice on Clorox and try it on one plant.

I find that the very best thing to do is just remove any lower foliage with blemishes. If you can keep ahead of it, there is no need to spray - but that is just my approach (I've never really sprayed anything on my plants ever, but I have the time to attend to them)

[QUOTE=nctomatoman;741379]I find that the very best thing to do is just remove any lower foliage with blemishes. If you can keep ahead of it, there is no need to spray - but that is just my approach (I've never really sprayed anything on my plants ever, but I have the time to attend to them)[/QUOTE]

Thank you Craig. For whatever it might be worth, I agree with you. I did buy and read your Epic Tomatoes book. :)

I guess this is you Craig/NC?

[url]https://www.growingagreenerworld.com/episode-803-epic-tomatoes/[/url]

I’m such a noob, but i’m trying to learn

He's a mentor.

Some plants are spaced 1 foot, some 2 feet. I just saw the video from the link I posted and it seems I have some similarities to Craig’s set up. I’m growing on a cement patio in square foot milk crates with landscape fabric lining the containers. 2 crates stacked on top of each other. The top crate has no fabric on the bottom so that the roots can make their way through to the bottom crate.

Now that I can see the leaves clearly it looks like Early Blight to me. I agree about removing the leaves but would also apply Daconil. It seems to work the best of any of the fungicides I have tried on Early Blight. If it is Septoria I would use a copper spray.

I had a fairly bad outbreak of Early Blight and lost some fruit to sun scald because I had to remove so many leaves. It sometimes seems extreme but it sure helps in the long run.

Bill

That nasty picture above was just one plant. The rest are yellow and orange, but some in the middle of the plant not bottom. I wonder if it makes sense to toss out the 2 worst out of 12 plants?

Yes it seems extreme with plants with not many healthy leaves. But I guess the risk of spreading is worse...

Do the spores stay in the soil after the plants’ roots are removed?

I sprayed Serenade bc that’s what I have and pulled 2 weak plants

Thanks Bill
-Charlie

One more question. It may be coincidence, but right before the fungal outbreak I had diatomaceous earth on the mid to lower leaves, that sat on the plant for 2-4 days until it rained. This was to target flea beetles that were chomping holes through my plants leaves.

Could diatomaceous earth cause some of these problems by smothering the leaves?