Favorite seed starting mix
 

Back in the 1990's it seemed that the only problem that I had was that my tomato plants grew too fast indoors.


But now my tomatoes look bad when I start them off. I need to work on it!


I have been using Pro-Mix BX, the peppers seem to do great in it but the tomatoes don't seem to like it.


Just wanted to see what others favorite seed starting mix is?


Thanks



Jim

I use whatever is in stores, and it isn't an issue for tomatoes. Peppers I am quite particular about. Fertilome and Fafard are excellent for peppers. as is the ProMix- BX.These products contain bark fines whereas lower priced mixes are heavy on peat with no fines.
I'm just going to throw this out off the top of my head …. are you feeding your transplants?

I feed my peppers only two or three times at most during their stay indoors. Tomato seedlings get fed a low strength snack quite regularly. Perhaps it is a fertilizer issue.

- Lisa

Thanks Lisa


Yes I feed them. Last year I used Espoma Start organic fertilizer.



Jim

[QUOTE=uno;724361]Thanks Lisa


Yes I feed them. Last year I used Espoma Start organic fertilizer.



Jim[/QUOTE]


Some additional information as to their condition and at what stage could help define the problem. Perhaps one of the experts will weight in on water quality which is not a problem in my current area. My water used to smell like a swimming pool when I worked in Philly.


- Lisa

Just noticed you are in West PA, but curious anyway.

Floraself Select line (with the red packaging). Most probably the best somewhat cheap mix in Germany. Certainly not as cheap as the ones in Aldi etc, but a lot better, and also a lot better than similarly priced stuff in stores specialized in transplants like Dehner.

[QUOTE=greenthumbomaha;724363]My water used to smell like a swimming pool when I worked in Philly. . . . Just noticed you are in West PA, but curious anyway.[/QUOTE]


+1, water around Philly has been hyperchlorinated lately :shock: probably because of all the rain this year. Let tap water stand before use or using purified water is an excellent idea! :yes:

Vermont Compost's Fort Vee can't be beat, if you are in a location where you can get hold of it.

I use whatever goes on clearance the previous fall. Usually Miracle Grow or Hyponex. This year I found Burpee Organic Potting Mix from a K-mart going out of business.

I like Burpee's Organic Seed Starting Mix which is coco coir. I press the seeds lightly into the top of the mix and then cover with a thin layer of diatomaceous earth. With bottom heat at around 80 deg. F, I usually get germination in 4 or 5 days. If I use peat (only occasionally), then I screen the mix with a 1/2" hardware cloth sieve to remove lumps and stems.

There are two that I used. Pro mix BX and Jeffy seed starting mix. They both seem to do good . I always re pot into Pro mix BX after the seedling grow their second true set of leaves. Jeffy has a much finer growing media than Pro Mix,but you can stir up pro mix and it does as well. Just stay away from heavy potting mix, not designed for seed starting in my experience.

I’ve had good success using Coco Loco from Foxfarm.

I like regular ol MG potting soil. Biggest bag they got. Start seeds in it and transplant them in it.
I think I got over 95% germination after about 8-10 days. Most up within half that time. 13 varieties seen in this pic. Keep in mind some of this seed is 10+ years directly sown to “barks and sticks”.

I tried Lambert's this year and love it for the price. Sign up at AM Leonard to receive emails, they offer free shipping a few times a year and that's a deal that's hard to beat.
This bale is 65 lbs and will last years depending on how many plants you start. I have 3/4 of the bag left and started and just repotted a few hundred seedlings.
[url]https://www.amleo.com/lambert-germination-mix-38-cf/p/LM18GM/[/url]

I like Lambert's as well.

1 part Lambert's
1 part perlite
1 part worm castings

Each watering I give a touch of Cal/Mag and Root n Grow, or compost tea.

I use this mix in 50 cell round flats.

I start seeds the way Carolyn has always taught: Jiffy Mix Seed Starting Mix with no fertilizer until they grow a set of permanent leaves, then transplant into 3" cells filled with MG Potting Mix.

Those always work well for me, but I'm going to change my timing a bit this year. I always start seeds on Mar. 15 and plant out in the ground during the first week of May - that's because our average last killing frost date here is April 15 and, not liking frozen seedlings, I've played it safe.

However, my tomato seedlings are growing bigger than I want them AND other gardens around here are usually a couple of weeks ahead of me in getting ripe summer veggies. I'm going to get braver this year and, keeping an eye on the forecasts, try to get tomatoes and peppers in the ground as soon after April 15 as I can.

Hope I'm not out there after dark covering seedlings to try and keep them from freezing.
:)

[QUOTE=PhilaGardener;724383]+1, water around Philly has been hyperchlorinated lately :shock: probably because of all the rain this year. Let tap water stand before use or using purified water is an excellent idea! :yes:[/QUOTE]

Uno is in SW PA, whereas Phila. is in SE PA - two totally different water supplies. I'm just outside of Phila, in Bensalem PA. and I think my water is the same as Phila's. I start seeds in Espoma Seed Starter, and use straight tap water. Never had a problem. Everything is always strong and healthy.

For those of you that use regular potting mix -- do you screen it to remove twigs, etc? I always had trouble with big "chunks" of debris or mix if I didn't sift it with some 1/4" hardware cloth first. Now I normally use Burpee's Coir starting mix (no sifting required).

[QUOTE=Greatgardens;729609]For those of you that use regular potting mix -- do you screen it to remove twigs, etc? I always had trouble with big "chunks" of debris or mix if I didn't sift it with some 1/4" hardware cloth first. Now I normally use Burpee's Coir starting mix (no sifting required).[/QUOTE]

I don’t screen it. My seeds have done just fine without needing to do that. Additionally, I have found no great advantage to using a starter mix over regular mg potting soil. And don’t even get me started on those darn Jiffy pellets! All that stuff is a waste of money in my opinion, at least where tomatoes are concerned.

I think a lot of people tend to sow their seeds much deeper than necessary. Perhaps the seed starting mixes are a bit more forgiving in that respect? So, I suspect that is why it is popular. I use a typical 72 cell tray and fill each cell loosely to the top with potting soil. Usually, 2 seeds per cell, maybe 3 if it’s older seed. Seed is placed on top of the soil, never in it. Then, sprinkle a very thin layer of soil on top of the seed, just barely enough to cover them. I use a spray bottle to wet soil. Cover with the clear top that comes with the tray. I keep them at room temp. No heating mat required. After about 3 days when I see the first sprout appear I turn on my fluorescents. Two 4’ shop lights, 4 bulbs total, 2 warm white and 2 cool white (2red/2blue) alternating the colors. Hang fixtures as close to the tray as safely possible.

My seedlings don’t appear to be suffering from “stick and bark” trauma at the moment. Although, I think they are just about ready for their first dose of fertilizer.

I have actually culled a bunch of seedlings out of this tray due to the high rate of success.

Bought my seed starting mix at my local ALDI 4.38 so far so good.

I like to get them a good dose of P when it's time to fertilize. Phosphorus gets those stalks nice and thick and prevents the seedlings from becoming leggy.

The best seed starting mix possible is a good start. Fox farm light warrior seed mix is a good bagged soil available most anywhere if you don't feel up to making your own.

Rule of thumb .. anything but miracle grow..

Rule of thumb .. anything but miracle grow..

Yeah, not sure why anyone would use that nasty stuff!:twisted:

[QUOTE=Ozark;729449]I start seeds the way Carolyn has always taught: Jiffy Mix Seed Starting Mix with no fertilizer until they grow a set of permanent leaves, then transplant into 3" cells filled with MG Potting Mix.

Those always work well for me, but I'm going to change my timing a bit this year. I always start seeds on Mar. 15 and plant out in the ground during the first week of May - that's because our average last killing frost date here is April 15 and, not liking frozen seedlings, I've played it safe.

However, my tomato seedlings are growing bigger than I want them AND other gardens around here are usually a couple of weeks ahead of me in getting ripe summer veggies. I'm going to get braver this year and, keeping an eye on the forecasts, try to get tomatoes and peppers in the ground as soon after April 15 as I can.

Hope I'm not out there after dark covering seedlings to try and keep them from freezing.
:)[/QUOTE]


Im using Pro Mix BX in 72 cell to germinate and give them a dose of liquid fertilizer when they get true leaves, under cheap shop lights, seems to be working well.
I've started many too early for years, but not this one...
I don't want the earliest tomato of the year... I want the Best one!