How a Potato Plant Grows
 

[url]http://www.durgan.org/URL/?QHBIN[/url] 21 August 2009 How a Potato Plant Grows
There is a great deal of information on the Internet about growing potatoes in tires, boxes and indicating that large quantities of new tubers can be produced with high vertical hilling. The view propagated is that potatoes grow from branches all along the main stalk. This is utter nonsense, as the pictures indicate. New tubers are formed around the seed potato and always slightly above it.

My potato growing test box was opened today. The pictures speak for themselves. Clearly there is no advantage in carrying out excessive hilling when growing potatoes. The purpose of hilling is to insure the tubers are covered, since light affects potatoes producing a green appearance, which is an indication of solanine, which is harmful if ingested in large quantities.. For comparison one Pontiac Red was dug in the same row, which was almost identical to the test box potato in appearance.

I found thos pics a while ago and bookmarked the page then. Good stuff.

Durgan

I note the raised box weight should be 5.5 - that's 2 lbs. more than in ground ........ although potatoes don't form up the stem the raised box method did seem to provide a greater harvest ...........

thank you for the informative post -

I am the only fool in the world who cannot grow potatoes lol....nice pics though even though I give up on them :)

[QUOTE=lakelady;343994]I am the only fool in the world who cannot grow potatoes lol....nice pics though even though I give up on them :)[/QUOTE]

Isn't NJ a gardener's paradise? All you have to do is put a potato in the ground and it will produce.

[QUOTE=Durgan;344053]Isn't NJ a gardener's paradise? All you have to do is put a potato in the ground and it will produce.[/QUOTE]I just did exactly that, but also seperately planted sprouts removed from the tubers (sprout jacking). Would be better to use dark and stocky sprouts from regular pre-sprouting with full light exposure instead of my long and pale ones, I just have none. Will of course compare the results.

I planted potatoes for my mother-in-love (88 years) yesterday- area 200 m2.
Vladimír

Well, two years ago I planted them in a large old wine barrel planter. I could never quite figure out the "hilling " concept and I was adding straw. Got a few little guys, but the plants fell over and never quite looked like the pictures I've seen ! It had to be operator error, not climate I am sure! :) . I am too busy with tomatoes most of the time, and then flowers after that.

I grow mine in "Oregon Breathers" and have had great success...I think it would be easier than in the ground.

It does take some practice but works well...

I came to the same conclusion last year after I went to the time and effort to hill 3-50' rows and noticed that there were no potatoes up the stem of the plant. Only the ones that formed down by the tuber. Thanks for reassuring us that the excessive hilling is unnecessary work, mine sure didn't have any more than the ones already formed. I have 3-50' rows and 2-70' rows this year and will hill them once and be done with it. Thank you!

I had some of the same experience with early varieties like Yukon Gold that hilling them is not going to make more tubers along the stem. Their growth habit is determinate and the tubers are close to the main stem. Some later varieties would send stolons along the stem producing more tubers so they benefit of extra hilling and I had others that send stolons far away from the main stem so a wide row benefits them. So far is a trial and error when I try new varieties I hill them to see if they are determinate or indeterminate.

[QUOTE=wmontanez;344302]I had some of the same experience with early varieties like Yukon Gold that hilling them is not going to make more tubers along the stem. Their growth habit is determinate and the tubers are close to the main stem. [B]Some later varieties would send stolons along the stem producing more tubers so they benefit of extra hilling [/B]and I had others that send stolons far away from the main stem so a wide row benefits them. So far is a trial and error when I try new varieties I hill them to see if they are determinate or indeterminate.[/QUOTE]

I would just love to see pictures of this type of potato. The Seattle Times (?) babbles about this but never any pictures. There is not one truly meaningful picture on the internet of vertical stem producing potatoes. Several shots of carpentering skills building boxes exist, usually plagiarized from one original.

If tubers form a large distance from the seed potato, it is a sign of lack of moisture where and when required. New tubers should form within about a foot or slightly more diameter centred on the seed potato, and always slightly above, hence the requirement for hilling or covering.

I will try to take pictures this year one that has this habit is CIP396256. A nice blight resistant, long season, pink skin and yellow flesh, very tasty. As for the long stolons if moisture is the cause them why it only affects some varieties? I grow them under the same conditions and some seem to always send long stolons finding potatoes way over 1 ft from the center. Maybe Tom Wagner, DarJones or Medbury Garden that have seen this habit can give explanations about this or examples of varieties. One I grew called Azule Rose does this as well of one of my own crosses.

It is easy enough to substantiate your position. A careful sequence of photos will suffice. I substantiated my position with photos that are more than adequate for a logical person.

Durgan, Most commonly available potato varieties were selected for short stolons and smaller plants, as well as other traits for machine harvestability. Some of the genetics available thru Tom wagner are selected for flavor/color, berry production, and other traits so still contain genes for "less desirable traits" such as long stolons, thin skins, short dormancy, ect. Varieties like guincho negro and herm 18 will have 6' stolons NO MATTER WHAT YOU DO. But I have found 90%+ varieties need only a moderate hilling to produce a good crop.

[QUOTE=wingnut;345985]Durgan, Most commonly available potato varieties were selected for short stolons and smaller plants, as well as other traits for machine harvestability. Some of the genetics available thru Tom wagner are selected for flavor/color, berry production, and other traits so still contain genes for "less desirable traits" such as long stolons, thin skins, short dormancy, ect. Varieties like guincho negro and herm 18 will have 6' stolons NO MATTER WHAT YOU DO. But I have found 90%+ varieties need only a moderate hilling to produce a good crop.[/QUOTE]

Maybe you should address one characteristic, since I have no idea what you are trying to say.

The internet for years has been full of people producing hundreds of pounds of potatoes from vertical hilling as if the tubers grow off the stem similar to a tomato. I have never seen a meaningful clear picture of this type of production and neither has anybody else. I am waiting.

I agree with DURGAN regarding where potatoes grow. I've planted them in 1/2 barrells and 15 gal containers. I've planted them deep and shallow. But whatever way they always grow around the root of the plant. While the deep box planting sounds logical (potatoes growing along the vines) Iv'e never found it to be true. The only thing deep planting is going to do is make you dig deeper for your spuds. There has been a lot of questions and speculation about some of these Garden Editorials as to whether they have actually performed the "new and improved" way of gardening that they profess. Most have not. Rely on the information from those who are experienced from a practical rather than theoretical sense. (See the upside down tomato planter for further cases).

[QUOTE=riceke;346065]I agree with DURGAN regarding where potatoes grow. I've planted them in 1/2 barrells and 15 gal containers. I've planted them deep and shallow. But whatever way they always grow around the root of the plant. While the deep box planting sounds logical (potatoes growing along the vines) Iv'e never found it to be true. The only thing deep planting is going to do is make you dig deeper for your spuds. There has been a lot of questions and speculation about some of these Garden Editorials as to whether they have actually performed the "new and improved" way of gardening that they profess. Most have not. Rely on the information from those who are experienced from a practical rather than theoretical sense. (See the upside down tomato planter for further cases).[/QUOTE]

Finally a gardener, who uses his eyes and logic. Gardening books leave a lot to be desired. Of course, the hardest group to find is vegetables gardeners. They are few and far between. There are almost none in my area. Large yards and a, good soil, and good climate. Further even if grown most people have no idea how to preserve or store for off season use.

Not trying to start an argument, just stateing that the "improved' varieties i.e. "commercial" varieties have had EXTENSIVE selection AGAINST the traits you are looking for. Saying that, there are THOUSANDS of varieties (mostly native peruvian types)that have not had these traits bred out. Both herm 18 and guincho negro will grow 6' stolons, and don't "nest" their tubers like MOST commercial varieties. As far as photo evidence....I will do my best.

[QUOTE=wingnut;346115]Not trying to start an argument, just stateing that the "improved' varieties i.e. "commercial" varieties have had EXTENSIVE selection AGAINST the traits you are looking for. Saying that, there are THOUSANDS of varieties (mostly native peruvian types)that have not had these traits bred out. Both herm 18 and guincho negro will grow 6' stolons, and don't "nest" their tubers like MOST commercial varieties. As far as photo evidence....I will do my best.[/QUOTE]


I would very much like to see some varieties that can grow more as the stem is buried. I do not grow potatoes due to space constraints. I would love to see a vertical success as it would indeed get my attention. :yes:

I tried this last year with (apparently) two determinate varieties, neither of which worked. Dark Red Norland and Purple Viking.

So this year I am trying this with two varieties that are longer season, with long stolons that set tubers fairly high. Purple Peruvian fingerling and either Papa Chonca or Rose Finn Apple fingerling. I haven't decided which. The others I was intending to use may still be too small this year (Dheera, Morado Ojuda). We shall see.

Both the varieties you used last year are very early/short season varieties. The purple peruvian, and papa choncha should work. What do you mean by "too small"?


[QUOTE=NathanP;346434]I tried this last year with (apparently) two determinate varieties, neither of which worked. Dark Red Norland and Purple Viking.

So this year I am trying this with two varieties that are longer season, with long stolons that set tubers fairly high. Purple Peruvian fingerling and either Papa Chonca or Rose Finn Apple fingerling. I haven't decided which. The others I was intending to use may still be too small this year (Dheera, Morado Ojuda). We shall see.[/QUOTE]

By "too small" I mean they are only 1/2" high from TPS sown in March. I'm not sure at what point they will be ready to transplant since they are growing so slowly.

And yes, I had ordered short season potatoes last year. Big mistake. I had thought that by repeatedly burying the stems every few weeks it would force the potatoes in the bins to extend out the season. So this year I am using high tuber setting, longer season potatoes and hope to develop layers of stolons.

[QUOTE=NathanP;346682]By "too small" I mean they are only 1/2" high from TPS sown in March. I'm not sure at what point they will be ready to transplant since they are growing so slowly.

And yes, I had ordered short season potatoes last year. Big mistake. I had thought that by repeatedly burying the stems every few weeks it would force the potatoes in the bins to extend out the season. So this year I am using high tuber setting, longer season potatoes and hope to develop layers of stolons.[/QUOTE]

[url]http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/how-to-grow-100-pounds-of-pota-81760[/url]
According to this article from the Seattle Times, potatoes planted inside a box with this method can grow up to 100 pounds of potatoes in just 4 square feet.

The [I]Seattle Times[/I] has already built the boxes. Now they should patent the potato. Think of all the land that could be freed up to grow other crops.

That is the exact same design I am using. I modeled mine after that article last year, though mine are slightly larger. 24"x24". I have two.

My notes from mistakes of last year:
1 - don't use short season / early potato varieties.
2 - don't use straw. roots and stolons do not form in straw. though they do in wood chips/shavings/sawdust

Does the box have to be that tall (4')??? I have one 2x2x2 and gotten a good harvest. Never really weighed it but was at least a bucket full. By the way the picture says it's 4 square feet or do they mean 4 cu'

I would suggest that the Seattle Times article is very exagerated. 100# of potatoes is about 2'x2'x3'......so not much room for dirt in their box.

from some information i have read you must have varieties that have the ability to set tubers as the plant grows. the types commonly found in my area do not have this ability. i regret i was unable to locate the info on this subject. it was on a site that was specifically devoted to this subject..

jon

Yes that is correct. The only way this will work is to find potato lines that set tubers along stolons. Nearly all commercial varieties have been bred to NOT do this.

Traits to look for:
Long season/late season
high setting tubers, close to the ground or above ground level
traditional landraces
wilder types

A couple of good starting places seem to be growing from TPS sold by [URL="http://www.tomatoville.com/www.newworldcrops.com/zen/"]www.tomwagnerseeds.com [/URL][URL="http://www.tomatoville.com/www.tomwagnerseeds.com"]
[/URL] [URL]http://www.newworldcrops.com/zen/[/URL], or the Kenosha Potato Project [URL="http://www.newworldcrops.com/zen/"]http://www.curzio.com/N/PotatoProject.htm[/URL]
[URL="http://www.newworldcrops.com/zen/"]
[/URL]For height, no you do not need 4'. I opted for 3.5' high with mine, but that was probably based more on amount of available lumber that I had on hand.

[QUOTE=NathanP;347102]Yes that is correct. The only way this will work is to find potato lines that set tubers along stolons. Nearly all commercial varieties have been bred to NOT do this.

Traits to look for:
Long season/late season
high setting tubers, close to the ground or above ground level
traditional landraces
wilder types

[/QUOTE]

Nobody has ever seen such a potato plant as you describe. They simply don't exist. Sort of like the unicorn or philosopher's stone. Never has any meaningful picture been posted anywhere indicating the nonsense propagated by the Seattle Times. People have tried to fudge meaningless photos with a bit of Yankee blarney.