I put a Tesla turbine down at the river behind the house and connected it to a 15 kva generator head. When I open the sluice, that thing hums and makes so much electricity that it glows in the dark. Between the turbine generator and the 25 kw of solar panels, I might survive the apocalypse. Only problem I have is neither one of em will mow my grass. You got one of them 4 lane texas lawn mowers I could borrow?

I got the first side extension out of the electrolysis bath this evening and washed the rust off of it, then rubbed it dry. The second is in the electro-bath tonight and will be ready tomorrow. I'll buy some dark gray paint and coat them, then sand down the tops and wax them with a good quality car polish.

Tomorrow will get the first of the table saw disassembly when I remove the trunions. I plan on putting all of the cast iron parts in the electrolysis bath and then giving them a coat of paint to last a lot of years.

Welcome to Texas :))

[QUOTE=Fusion_power;591308]I got the first side extension out of the electrolysis bath this evening and washed the rust off of it, then rubbed it dry. The second is in the electro-bath tonight and will be ready tomorrow. I'll buy some dark gray paint and coat them, then sand down the tops and wax them with a good quality car polish.

Tomorrow will get the first of the table saw disassembly when I remove the trunions. I plan on putting all of the cast iron parts in the electrolysis bath and then giving them a coat of paint to last a lot of years.[/QUOTE]


I use mineral oil on all my rustables it works much much better than car wax.
A good ISO 32 or 46 hydraulic fluid works just fine.
It will creep into every crack and crevasse, and put it on your threads when you put stuff back together.
It also makes the wood slide across the surface like greased lightning.
And there is no worries about it getting in the wood and staining it.
I used a brand new flat Norton India stone to surface the top of my saw then polished with 600 grit and oil on a flat board.

Can you tell us the model number of the saw.

Worth

I got up today ready to drill the holes, put the center drill in the chuck reached up to grab the chuck key and it was gone.
Looked everywhere for it twice or three times to no avail it was frigging gone.
The stupid drill press has a clip thing to put the key in and I can never seem to remember to put it there.
Even if it do it falls out and runs off.
So it ends up in the must unlikely places.
Out of desperation I decided to look in my, (it wont get lost here drawer) in the house.
There it was along with the rest of the stuff I didn't want to lose.
I have no recollection of putting that darn chuck key in that drawer.
Well today I did what I should have done a long time ago I tied it to the press with a string.
The one that goes to the metal lathe is going to get tied to that lathe too.
Chuck keys of all things have driven me nuts for years.
The one on my hole shooter is tied to the cord.
Well anyway I have the holes drilled and threaded the stud installed and it all fits like a glove.
I decided not to make a nut with a handle on it to tighten the thing I came up with something else.

Worth

I think I have everything welded up and just waiting for it to cool down.
The part I am making now is the top slide that goes on the top part of the top part I made before.:lol:
Once this piece is cleaned up and fitted I will make the part that the tool rest goes into.
Right now it is square and clunky looking bout will be rounded off and ground.
Too busy to load pictures.


Worth

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Yep that is a nick I have to fix in the last pictuer.:lol:
Looks just like the drawing.
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Nice lug nut. Got a few of those myself.

Now I see where you were going with the stud. In order to secure the tool rest, you'll have to snug both the nut below the slide plate to lock the way runners, and the lug nut to lock the slide plate. Yes? But all with a single stud. Slick.

[QUOTE=dmforcier;591540]Nice lug nut. Got a few of those myself.

Now I see where you were going with the stud. In order to secure the tool rest, you'll have to snug both the nut below the slide plate to lock the way runners, and the lug nut to lock the slide plate. Yes? But all with a single stud. Slick.[/QUOTE]


That is right and not only is the stud threaded into a 3/8 really hard plate in the bottom it has a washer, lock washer and a nut that will keep it from turning and add more holding power.
The lug nut was a dollar and one of the reasons I went with 1/2 20 threads.

I put it on the lathe and set it on the floor then extended it all the way out and jumped up and down on the end of the slide to try and break it.
Not gonna happen, it didn't even flex.
You can move it any way you want and everything slides like it is on greased glass.
Works better than factory.
The part where the slide runs on looks rough but it has bearing surfaces honed across it with low spots in it.
This allows oil to stay and lubricate it like the old flaking they did on machine surfaces.
Worth

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I got both side extensions fully cleaned and painted today. It took nearly a full can of dark gray spray paint to get a coat. Cast iron absorbs an inordinate amount of paint. Next target is to get the table disassembled and cleaned. That will take about an hour to disassemble and 12 hours in the electrolysis bath.

The saw is model 113.298761

[QUOTE=Worth1;591546]You can move it any way you want and everything slides like it is on greased glass.
Works better than factory./QUOTE]

A picture is worth 1000 words, now I can stop trying to guess where you're going. Just a word on your welds, you can do better than that ! when you have some spare time visit Jody Collier's site, a reference on several continents : [url]http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/[/url]

all the best

Here are my excuses.
Cant see through old ratty welding hood.
Welding hood fogged up.
No glasses on.
Out of argon.
Mosquitoes eating me alive.
Cant get in good position.
Electrical supply had lose connection in the wiring and I couldn't get my amperage to stabilize in one place.
(I was wondering why I was having to go up to 130 amps and them it would be too hot and I would have to lower it then back up again).
I discovered this today after I got a new bottle of gas and the welder wouldn't come on.
Need more practice as I dont weld enough.
Tig welding is darn near like flying a helicopter.:lol:
But the welds do hold and they look better than what was on it.
I also bought a new Miller auto darkening welding hood today from the welding supply shop.

Worth

[QUOTE=Worth1;591652]Tig welding is darn near like flying a helicopter.Worth[/QUOTE]

How right you are, but as you can weld with acetylen you have already made a big step.
With TIG an important point is to have a good rest for the hand holding the torch to keep a short arc steady and move along at a constant speed. Personally I always glide my (gloved) hand along a piece of wood set at the right place, it doesn't get hot. Of course it takes time to put everything into place but it's worth it.

You know, my bucket list isn't very big any more. Learning to be a good welder is still on it.




[SIZE=1] So is getting frisky with Sophia Vergara.[/SIZE]

This is why the wire feed welders are so popular they are the easiest to use.
But even then most of the people I see using them dont have the settings right.
The wire feed it too fast for the voltage setting.

I never look at videos on welding, what I do have and have read from one end to the other many times is a school book called welding skills and practices fifth edition.
Two books I cant find but will are my Machinery's Hand Book and Pipe Fitters and Welders handbook.
I found my trig and algebra books looking for the other two.

These books are a wealth of information and well worth buying for any hobbyist or even the home owner.
The charts include boiling points of water at altitude and even in a vacuum and so much more.

Worth

My dad ran a garage and had a decent 235 amp Marquette arc welder. I grew up using it and by the time I was 10 years old could select an appropriate rod and lay a tight bead. When I got into shop at school, the instructor had all of us start with laying a flat bead on a steel plate. Mine was the only one in class that could be called a weld. The instructor made a comment along the lines that it "just comes natural" for some people and I laughed and said that I had been welding since I was 10 years old. I also learned to use an oxy/acetylene rig and I learned to take motors apart and put them back together before I was 12. The only things I didn't do were the parts that required more strength than a 12 year old can muster.

This is not the same as using a mig/tig rig, but my experience is that anything I want to do I can set down and figure out. I keep hearing kids today talk about having to "go to school" to learn to do these things. There are things you need to go to school to learn, but having an attitude of I'm going to do whatever I set my mind to do can't be taught. I also taught myself computer programming and am fluent in C++, basic, Perl, and java, and can muddle along in 2 or 3 more.

I'm making slow progress with the tablesaw. Today was reserved for working on honeybees. I'm moving 8 colonies tomorrow evening. I would have moved them today, but we are having a serious thunderstorm. The stands are ready, just have to get the bees to them.

Darrel I dont know what to say about school.
Just what is school but a place of learning.
This can be anywhere, at home, in the shop, by yourself, with other people or working under a master.
I was an idiot when I graduated from high school and have had to teach myself almost if not everything.
The object of this thread is to show that anything can be done if you set your mind to it with a minimum of tools or with the tools at hand.
I have read on line and watched videos about countless people that have a lathe and have never cut threads with it because they are scared to.
The main reason I got a lathe is so I could cut threads.
Spent the day making small parts for the wood lathe.

As for welding everyone should learn how to stick weld before they MIG weld.
All TIG welding is, is electric gas welding, if you can gas weld you are well on you way to TIG welding.
You can TIG weld and gas weld in the house I have.

Worth

Stopped working phone battery low, cant take pictures.
How stupid is that?:))
Worth

[QUOTE=Worth1;591732]This is why the wire feed welders are so popular they are the easiest to use.Worth[/QUOTE]

And the most dangerous too. Lack of penetration is a common mistake and a most dangerous one:cry:

[QUOTE=Fusion_power;591755]… by the time I was 10 years old could select an appropriate rod and lay a tight bead [/QUOTE]

I had already noticed you knew what you were talking about !

[QUOTE=Fusion_power;591755] Today was reserved for working on honeybees[/QUOTE]

I hope Worth won’t mind too much if I shortly pollute his post but I’m quite interested in your beekeeping. No diseases ? no harmful pesticides ? do they stay in the same place or do you move them about ? What flowers can they visit ? I promise I won’t go off line again after reading your answer !

[QUOTE=loulac;591799]And the most dangerous too. Lack of penetration is a common mistake and a most dangerous one:cry:[/QUOTE]

A young friend of mine complained about the wide flat welds I was making with a MIG and TIG welder and cutting bevels in the steel.
It was for his race car crash cage, what we call a roll cage.
He complained about the welds on some factory motorcycles at the dealership too.
All he had seen was the welds that looked like a skinny rod sitting on top of the metal with no penetration and never any welds in an industrial plant.

What I try to do with MIG when I can is called spray arc welding he had never heard a MIG welder sound like that before.
[URL]https://youtu.be/xb1gvHf0H6w[/URL]


[QUOTE=loulac;591800]I had already noticed you knew what you were talking about !



I hope Worth won’t mind too much if I shortly pollute his post but I’m quite interested in your beekeeping. No diseases ? no harmful pesticides ? do they stay in the same place or do you move them about ? What flowers can they visit ? I promise I won’t go off line again after reading your answer ![/QUOTE]

I dont mind at all talk about bees all you want.:)
Worth

Here is the progression of the project.
In the pictures you will see how I used the files to first cut a line and then progressive round and half round file to cut the radius to fit the other parts.
In one picture I am using the drill press as a holding fixture so I cant weld it up.
These parts was made from a Mauser gun barrel and a hardened rod.
Until I find the right sized steel to make a bushing to go inside the post the one I have in there will have to do.
The threads are 3/8 24 they tighten down nicely without much force at all.
I chose this thread pitch because it will have less tendency to vibrate loose.
Not for sure if I want to capture the handle on it by bulging out the other end or making something I can unscrew to take it off.

There is a hole drilled in the bushing and I can take it out.

Worth
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Coming down to making my first tool rest for the lathe cant make my mind up if I want to make a S curved one for bowls or not.

Worth

Here it is just no curves yet.
But it is very solid.
Looks like a lathe now.:D

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[QUOTE=Worth1;591876]Coming down to making my first tool rest for the lathe cant make my mind up if I want to make a S curved one for bowls or not.

Worth[/QUOTE]
I've never seen a curved toolrest but I suggest you make a much shorter straight one. You will set it at the right angle to reach the bottom of a bowl and suppress any lever effect that could create vibrations.
Thanks for all the pictures, following your work is a pleasure.

By the way your tool rest will be quite uncomfortable to use. you shoud add a horizontal (rounded) part at the top

A curved tool rest has a radius to fit on the inside and outside of a bowl.
Some of these I see for sale look flimsy and would vibrate or what we would call chatter or flexing.
The same as hanging the tool out too far on a metal lathe.
I test3ed this one out and it works great it has a radius filed smooth on top so there is no need to weld a round bar on top.
You can turn below and above the center line by adjusting the post up and down.
The face has bee polished up and the hand slides up and down the rest with ease.
There is no moving flexing or vibrating in it at all and it is tilted to about a 60 degree angle towards the work.
I put a lot of thought into it before I built it.
My next project will be a small gouge.
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A funny thing happened on the way to the gouge.
The electricity went off in the middle of boring the rifle barrel out.:shock::lol:
Here are the steps.
I measured the outside diameter, it was 5/8 - 15.8 so I bored it out to 29/64 or 11.5 mm.
Then it was ground down on one side and a bevel ground onto the outside and honed.
Took all of about 15 minutes.
It works great and the old Mauser barrel steel holds a great edge just like I knew it would.:yes:
Homemade wood turning gouge out of scraps.:yes:
Some of these scraps I am using date back to the late 30's and 40's.
If it was one barrel I had it was made in 1938 I dont know because they are all from WWII and 8mm.
The other barrel it could be from was from Austria and made by Steyr in the 40's.
I never throw away good steel.

Worth
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Here are the gouge results and what I made with it.
I cant be happier with the gouge it is everything I wanted and much more.
I started out on the hardest thing possible to learn how the use, the skew and the gouge is a breeze to use.
It is a small rolling pin but the piece of hard maple has a long story behind it.
The story will be told in the River Of Time Thread.
Worth

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First class work as usual.
I first thought using top quality steel for a gouge was not justified, but you seem to have a nice stock of that steel, so it's not a problem. Besides you'll always be able to shorten the gouge and weld the cutting part on a handle made of common steel. Glad to know your hand can slide smoothly on tne toolrest.