I save mine and use them the same way. I started my second year after my tomatoes got BER really bad and have had no problems since, although I have changed and learned a lot since then...man I was such a noob gardener.

[QUOTE=solid7;439565]If there are any actual worries about calcium - which is often present in soil in plentiful quantities - and one is inclined to stay organic, you can always add Calcium Carbonate or Citrate, (dolomite only if you need to alter PH) or even just good old ground egg shells. We keep a coffee grinder specifically for the task of reducing them to useable particle size. It doesn't take too much. Generally, just mixing a few spoonfulls around the root ball will do you for the growing season.[/QUOTE]

Scott is talking about using 100% leaf mulch. There's no soil in that. Further, Ca levels vary from region to region. So I would use the idea of "often present in soil" with a grain of salt!

Egg shells are a great idea, if one eats eggs. Breakdown is fairly rapid in organic gardening terms.

Although Calcium Citrate meets the requirements for Certified Organic (USDA NOP), many people who garden by the organic philosophy will not accept it because the compound sold agriculturally is entirely man-made.

[QUOTE=Hermitian;439569]Scott is talking about using 100% leaf mulch. There's no soil in that. Further, Ca levels vary from region to region. So I would use the idea of "often present in soil" with a grain of salt!

Egg shells are a great idea, if one eats eggs. Breakdown is fairly rapid in organic gardening terms.

Although Calcium Citrate meets the requirements for Certified Organic (USDA NOP), many people who garden by the organic philosophy will not accept it because the compound sold agriculturally is entirely man-made.[/QUOTE]

Calcium citrate can be made from combining a natural and accepted lime source (limestone or egg shells) with common vinegar. A liquid version is readily useable.

I didn't realize that we were talking about 100% mulch. I thought that I read that the leaf mulch was being used to top dress his garden plot.

Also, for those who don't eat eggs, I have found that local restaurants will often gladly set them aside. You can easily gett 100 or more a day in such a way.

[QUOTE=solid7;439571] ... Calcium citrate can be made from combining a natural and accepted lime source (limestone or egg shells) with common vinegar. A liquid version is readily useable. ...[/QUOTE]

Yes! And completely unacceptable to a segment of the organic gardening community.

I have sold it in the past. Nowadays I sell Calcium Phosphite (not phosphate) to the inorganic growers, Calcium Lignosulfate to the NOP growers, and for the "organic philosophy" gardeners -- recommend local sources for Ca.

[QUOTE=Hermitian;439574]Yes! And completely unacceptable to a segment of the organic gardening community.

I have sold it in the past. Nowadays I sell Calcium Phosphite (not phosphate) to the inorganic growers, Calcium Lignosulfate to the NOP growers, and for the "organic philosophy" gardeners -- recommend local sources for Ca.[/QUOTE]

Sorry, I don't sell organically certified produce. I just use my waste products efficiently. So in that vein, I offer up my meager tidbits...

I till in hundreds of bags of leaves, grass clippings and plant residue in the fall. If leaves are used as a mulch, it will take the better part of summer for them to decompose. Either way you can't go wrong with natures gold. I don't have a clue as to what micro nutrients my soil might need. But after decades of leaves, horse manure,spent crops and cover cropping my garden seems very happy. What we grow is dependent upon plant genetics, weather and the soil. Take care of your dirt and your dirt will take care of you.

[QUOTE=bjbebs;439639]I till in hundreds of bags of leaves, grass clippings and plant residue in the fall. If leaves are used as a mulch, it will take the better part of summer for them to decompose. Either way you can't go wrong with natures gold. I don't have a clue as to what micro nutrients my soil might need. But after decades of leaves, horse manure,spent crops and cover cropping my garden seems very happy. What we grow is dependent upon plant genetics, weather and the soil. Take care of your dirt and your dirt will take care of you.[/QUOTE]

Add about 1 cup of real wood ash per 5 gallons of soil every year or so and watch your harvest improve.

[QUOTE=Hermitian;439679]Add about 1 cup of real wood ash per 5 gallons of soil every year or so and watch your harvest improve.[/QUOTE]

Herm
I heat with wood but don't like the mess ash creates in the garden. Rather than compost it, I throw it in the pond. Thank you for reminding me not to waste free potash and other nutrients.

[QUOTE=bjbebs;439684]Herm
I heat with wood but don't like the mess ash creates in the garden. Rather than compost it, I throw it in the pond. Thank you for reminding me not to waste free potash and other nutrients.[/QUOTE]

At 1 cup per 5 gallons of soil just prior to tilling, I can't see how there would be any mess. But, I'm willing to stand corrected!

[I]Potassium is the most overlooked nutrient for fruit production[/I] -- Dr. Thomas Ruehr, Plant Sciences, Cal Poly San Luis Obispo.

Good idea on the wood ash. I have 5 fireplaces and lots of wood ash. I have been worried about over liming beds meant for peppers and tomatoes, but a little wood ash seems to be ok.

[QUOTE=ScottinAtlanta;439688]Good idea on the wood ash. I have 5 fireplaces and lots of wood ash. I have been worried about over liming beds meant for peppers and tomatoes, but a little wood ash seems to be ok.[/QUOTE]

I used to lay down wood ash from my charcoal grill on my bananas - to the point that the top layer of soil, down to about 3", was a slimy, sllppery muck. That, on top of our soil, which is already highly basic. But I can honestly say, since I've discontinued that practice, I've never had bunches of bananas as big, or harvests as plentiful.

Having a very rich organic substrate will go a long ways towards negating effects of PH imbalances. It's not an absolute statement to say that PH doesn't matter in organics, but it's not nearly as critical as with synthetic fertilizers. As long as the nutrients are there, readily available, and not being offset or locked out by something else, it's usually good.

For the OP... I hope it's not off topic, because I know you're talking about leaf mulch. But have you ever considered using your leaves as part of a longer term strategy? Like lasagna gardening? Because I personally like a more "no-till" approach, so as not to disturb the soil web, destroy organisms, (especially worms) and to avoid disruption of carbon sequestration.

[QUOTE=solid7;439694]I used to lay down wood ash from my charcoal grill on my bananas - to the point that the top layer of soil, down to about 3", was a slimy, sllppery muck.[/QUOTE]

It appears you overapplied to the point of potassium toxicity. Plants have limits. More is not necessarily better. I computed 1 cup wood ash per 5 gallons per year or so as a reasonable limit.

[QUOTE=Labradors2;439433]That's quite a bit of acidity and carbon. Let us know how it goes and if it works well, I'm tossing this book out of the window {LOL}.

Linda[/QUOTE]

I saw some references to recent studies and the leaves once composted are really not that acidic. Not acidic enough for say blueberries.
I would not assume just because you read it, or read anything it is correct. Of course if you applied that to this post, you could probably ignore it! What the heck do I know! :)

[QUOTE=solid7;439694]I As long as the nutrients are there, readily available, and not being offset or locked out by something else, it's usually good.
[/QUOTE]

Yes, like PH which is notorious for locking nutrients out.Besides the potassium toxicity of ash, the PH was probably off the scale basic. When you stopped using them, the PH fell like a rock! Thus making nutrients became available once again. Also charcoal is the worst! It contains many additives, and such. You will never see it suggested to use in any garden. Wood ash yes, charcoal, absolutely not unless you like petroleum byproducts and chemical stabilizers.

[QUOTE=Hermitian;439679]Add about 1 cup of [b]real wood ash[/b] per 5 gallons of soil every year or so and watch your harvest improve.[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=solid7;439694]I used to lay down wood ash from my charcoal grill ...[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=drew51;439702]Yes, like PH which is notorious for locking nutrients out.Besides the potassium toxicity of ash, the PH was probably off the scale basic. When you stopped using them, the PH fell like a rock! Thus making nutrients became available once again. Also charcoal is the worst! It contains many additives, and such. You will never see it suggested to use in any garden. Wood ash yes, charcoal, absolutely not unless you like petroleum byproducts and chemical stabilizers.[/QUOTE]

Good call Drew.