Tomatoville® Gardening Forums

Tomatoville® Gardening Forums (http://www.tomatoville.com/index.php)
-   Common Garden Diseases and Pests (http://www.tomatoville.com/forumdisplay.php?f=63)
-   -   bought Daconil, the battle is on (http://www.tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=15016)

Timmah! July 3, 2010 08:16 PM

Order some Exel while you're at it. =)

Daconil should be 29.6% concentration. It's available as a liquid concentrate. Spray every 7-10 days, unless it rains, then reapply. If disease pressure is more severe, every 5-7 days? Thorough uniform coverage is advised. Use 1 tablespoon per gallon.

Here's a link to a 29.6% product concentration use label: [URL]http://www.bestnest.com/bestnest/img_p/BOP-879.pdf[/URL]

RandyG July 3, 2010 09:55 PM

[quote=Timmah!;175210]I agree Duckfan. By the way, that would be Dihydrogen Monoxide, Dihydrogen Oxide, et al. Hydrogen Dioxide is another name for hydrogen peroxide. =)[/quote]



From a terminology standpoint, water is more correctly referred to as the chemical compound hydrogen hydroxide since it has the OH hydroxyl ion in combination with the H ion. Other common hydroxides are calcium (CaOH), sodium (NaOH), and potassium (KOH) hydroxides. Hydroxides are moderate to strong basic compounds and react violently with acids to form water and a salt giving off a lot of energy in the process. For example NaOH reacts with hydrochloric acid (HCl) to produce water (hydrogen hydroxide) and sodium chloride (NaCl). The pH of water is neutral because the negative charge on the OH ion is balanced by the positive charge on the H ion. Hydrogen hydroxide is an extremely stable compound because of the bonding and shape of the molecule. That's why it takes so much energy to separate hydrogen from the oxygen in water.

duckfan July 3, 2010 11:10 PM

You're right, I had a brain fart. I must be the sun beating down on my bald head.

duckfan July 3, 2010 11:46 PM

[quote=tjg911;175212]okay i can't believe i am saying this but i'm going to try daconil.

the reason i have decided is i found this post by carolyn from last year and it says a few things that i needed to read. her comment is #5 in this link [URL]http://idigmygarden.com/forums/showthread.php?p=317569[/URL]

now i have a couple of questions about this since i know nothing about this product.

(1) it sounds like you use this after every rain or every 5-7 days if it does not rain?

(2) i like concentrates because they are more cost effective. can i buy daconil as a liquid concentrate (i hate powders)?

(3) how long will liquid concentrate last? for example i have bt concentrate from the mid 90's and it's still effective when kept in a cool dark place.

(4) i'm guessing you really drench the plant when spraying it? i assume this means under the leaves as well as the top leaf surfaces?

(5) are there products with chlorothalonil that should be avoided? are there products with chlorothalonil that are better than others? please cite names.

i'll re-read this thread and try to glean info now that i am willing to try daconil. i think i'd better buy it now before everyone is trying to get it and it's not available. i also hope the concentrate will store for a couple of years and i'll get a quart. like i stated in my original comment in keith's thread if i can't have tomatoes what's the use of summer, this product seems to be somewhat safe based upon carolyn's comments and i'm going to die of something anyway! :roll:

tom[/quote]
1) that's correct
2) Yes Otho makes it and it's relatively cheap. I got it at Home Depot
3) Can't answer that one. It's cheap enough that I can buy a pint a year without breaking the bank.
4) Yes
5) Stay with the Ortho and you won't have to worry about it.


There is another strategy. If it bothers you to use it you can take a gamble and not use it. There is a website that will provide you with the tools to make an intelligent bet. Late Blight is weather dependent. You need three things to get Late Blight, all must be present:
1) A susceptible plant, in this case the tomato plant
2) The presence of the disease
3) Cool, damp weather for a specific time period. These periods are referred to as Smith
Periods. A Google search will give you a better explanation of Smith Periods than I can.

Go to this site:
[url]http://uspest.org/risk/tom_pot_map[/url]

Zoom in to your location on the map. It will tell you what the conditions were three days ago and if the disease is present. Click on the ballon that's closest to your location. It will then give you a chart showing the likelyhood of the disease for a one week period. If your location doesn't show the disease as present and the weather prediction indicates the the conditions for the development of the disease are unfavorable for the next 3 to 4 days you can take a chance and skip spraying. It's a guess and it doesn't positively eliminate the risk but it's an educated guess and it may be worth it if you're uncomfortable using daconil. I don't like to use any chemical unless it's necessary. I have the Daconil and it's ready to go but the USpest website indicates my risk is very low now and for the next few days. I'm not going to use the Daconil until I have to.

One thing to remember. Daconil is a pre-emptive strike. It must be used before the disease strikes. It will not work on sick plants. If they get it, it's over. They can not be cured. Don't waste your time and the chemical. Pull the plants and dispose of them.

VORTREKER July 3, 2010 11:47 PM

Common sense?
 
LOL--There was a guy years ago that collected 8,000 signatures in one week supporting an immediate ban of hydroxylic acid and dihydrogen monoxide in California.
A rumor has it that the signatories then went off and got hired by the [B]EPA-[/B]-but only after the [B]EPA [/B]required a drug test and they had to fail it.

Beam me up Scotty--this earth asylum has been taken over by the inmates.

Timmah! July 4, 2010 03:51 AM

[quote=RandyG;175241]From a terminology standpoint, water is more correctly referred to as the chemical compound hydrogen hydroxide since it has the OH hydroxyl ion in combination with the H ion. Other common hydroxides are calcium (CaOH), sodium (NaOH), and potassium (KOH) hydroxides. Hydroxides are moderate to strong basic compounds and react violently with acids to form water and a salt giving off a lot of energy in the process. For example NaOH reacts with hydrochloric acid (HCl) to produce water (hydrogen hydroxide) and sodium chloride (NaCl). The pH of water is neutral because the negative charge on the OH ion is balanced by the positive charge on the H ion. Hydrogen hydroxide is an extremely stable compound because of the bonding and shape of the molecule. That's why it takes so much energy to separate hydrogen from the oxygen in water.[/quote]

"From a terminology standpoint, water is more correctly referred to as the chemical compound hydrogen hydroxide"

Hence the 'et al.' in my statement. et al. = & others. It can be correctly called several, because water is amphoteric & can be classified as either an acid or a base & named accordingly. The IUPAC name is oxidane.

"...since it has the OH hydroxyl ion in combination with the H ion"

Actually both hydrogen atoms are in a covalent bond to Oxygen, not ionic. If there is a hydroxyl ion, it's because the water molecule proper has dissociated, resulting in the hydroxide ion & the associated hydronium cation.

Specifically considering the chemical nature of water molecule, it's dipole; the oxygen end being negative & the two hydrogen end being positive.

"The pH of water is neutral because the negative charge on the OH ion is balanced by the positive charge on the H ion."

As above, it is because of the balance of hydroxide (-OH), hydronium ions (H3O+), & hydrogen ions (H+) in solution that determines the neutral ph of water.

tjg911 July 5, 2010 07:41 PM

all home depot sells is a 32 oz spray bottle no concentrate, i'd need 3 or 4 bottles to spray once!

i found this info on the internet "[COLOR=Red]This product has been recently re-named by Ortho. Once known as [I]Ortho Multi-Purpose Fungicide (Daconil 2787)[/I], it is now known as [B]Ortho® Garden Disease Control[/B][/COLOR] " and i assume this the right stuff?

tom

Timmah! July 5, 2010 09:29 PM

That would do the trick. Have you tried other stores such as Lowes, Ace Hardware, Walmart, etc.? If anything, as a resort you could order online:
[URL]http://www.amazon.com/Gulfstream-Garden-Daconil-Fungicide-Concentrate/dp/B000RUGIY0/ref=pd_sim_dbs_k_2[/URL]

danwigz July 5, 2010 11:22 PM

I want to thank whom ever mentioned the Ortho to begin with (I'm too lazy to re-read the thread right now).

I was wondering how I was going to find enough money to buy enough Daconil Spray bottles to apply to my plants. After going to my local home depot, and examining the Ortho Garden Disease Control I realized that would do the trick.

I sprayed this weekend, and man, a little goes a long way, so happy to have this concentrate!

Thanks!

Danwigz

Talon1189 July 9, 2010 09:04 PM

I have read this whole thread and then more. I have sprayed my 5 plants with Daconil today and feel proud that "early or late blight" will NOT kick my butt this season :D >>>>>>>>>>>>>> Talon

duckfan July 9, 2010 10:32 PM

The weatherman predicted the spores would start forming in my area today. I sprayed yesterday.

Talon1189 July 9, 2010 11:00 PM

[quote=duckfan;176161]The weatherman predicted the spores would start forming in my area today. I sprayed yesterday.[/quote]

Do you feel guilty for spraying your plants with Daconil?? I do NOT! >>>>>>>>>>>>Talon


















i

duckfan July 10, 2010 01:28 AM

Last year I felt guilty so I didn't use it and I lost almost my entire crop. I did more research on it over the winter and found it's not as bad as some of the OG zealots would have you believe. I found that a lot of their 'organic' sprays were just as bad or worse than chlorothalonil. Chlorothalonil is not as toxic to earthworms and other beneficial creatures as some of the stuff they use. You gain nothing by using their ineffective organic methods and may in fact be causing more harm.
I find this is a common occurrence with the Environmental crowd. Does anyone remember MTBE? They put it in gasoline to improve the air quality and wound up destroying our groundwater. Good thinking there Sherlock. I love the EPA. What a bunch of maroons.
I've never seen a need to use organic fertilizers. The plants just see the nutrients, they don't care where they come from and none of the OG folks gives a second thought to the salmonella and other nasty things they're spreading in their garden along with the manure. I decided to follow the directions given by the real experts and have a full tomato crop this year. Although I don't think the world will end if I use chlorothalonil, I will still be making every attempt to limit its use. I do that with everything that goes in my garden..

tjg911 July 10, 2010 12:27 PM

[quote=Timmah!;175607]That would do the trick. Have you tried other stores such as Lowes, Ace Hardware, Walmart, etc.? If anything, as a resort you could order online:
[URL]http://www.amazon.com/Gulfstream-Garden-Daconil-Fungicide-Concentrate/dp/B000RUGIY0/ref=pd_sim_dbs_k_2[/URL][/quote]

i had a list of about 12 places! blue seal feed and grain and agway were the only 2 i found that had the concentrate and then i stopped calling. many places have just a 32 oz spray bottle! imagine buying a 32 oz spray bottle? what the heck is that going to do? i never used this but i suspect it'd do 2 maybe 3 plants one time! it cost about $6.60, i bought the concentrate 16 oz for $19, 2.5 teaspoons makes 1 gallon.

i have yet to use it as it's been hot, full sun and no rain since 6/24. the next 6 days have rain in most days but those are t storms so they may not happen. i'm gambling that with the hot dry weather and virtually no LB i can wait. i know once infected but last year it took 7 weeks of virtually rain every day (98% of those days) sometimes multiple times per day, no sun and very cool weather with lots of infected plants in the north before i got hit. so i think i can wait since i really hope to not need this.

i wonder exactly what products that organic gardeners use that are worse than daconil? i'm og and i don't use anything other bt and seldom at that. people have used compost and especially manure for centuries so i don't buy that it's worse than a fungicide.

tom

duckfan July 10, 2010 01:15 PM

Hopefully you're not to close to Torrington. The weather conditions there are ideal for LB.

[url]http://uspest.org/risk/models?sta=C2522&mdl=tplb[/url]

P.S. Fertilizers and fungicides are two different topics. There's no way to compare the two.


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:36 AM.


★ Tomatoville® is a registered trademark of Commerce Holdings, LLC ★ All Content ©2022 Commerce Holdings, LLC ★