Thanks.

I just called around. I can't get spruce. Pine, cedar, and composite are my options. I think the cedar would split even worse than the pine.

I am thinking about getting this board and ripping it in half:
[URL]http://www.menards.com/main/deckestimator/railing-type/ac2/deckestimatorspindleoptionac2/ac2-with-wood-spindles/deckestimatorac2withwoodspindlesrailingstyle/42-vertical-handrail-/p-1414268-c-13628.htm[/URL]

I'm wondering if I will have to dig a trench, line it with plastic, and soak the boards in water before they will bend.

[QUOTE=Cole_Robbie;384304]Thanks.

I just called around. I can't get spruce. Pine, cedar, and composite are my options. I think the cedar would split even worse than the pine.

I am thinking about getting this board and ripping it in half:
[URL]http://www.menards.com/main/deckestimator/railing-type/ac2/deckestimatorspindleoptionac2/ac2-with-wood-spindles/deckestimatorac2withwoodspindlesrailingstyle/42-vertical-handrail-/p-1414268-c-13628.htm[/URL]

I'm wondering if I will have to dig a trench, line it with plastic, and soak the boards in water before they will bend.[/QUOTE]

Don't even waste your time trying to do this.
It is pressure treated.
I am only trying to help here.
You dont bend lumber this way, you steam it for at least 1 hour for every inch of thickness.

If you really want one of this Gothic arches you could use 3/8 plywood and stack it.

Splice it where the braces are.


I dont know what tools you have but if you have a table saw it would be easy.
Find a friend that has one if you dont.
If you have a router then get a 3/4 straight bit.
This one.
[IMG]http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/300/30/30a28d21-b203-4635-b052-4f117f833f7a_300.jpg[/IMG]

Set up a straight edge on the end of your strips of plywood and make all cuts on every piece.
Make 4 passes down to the last ply.
Then 4 more on the next and then 2 more on the last.
Moving the bit up on each step.
I would guess if you have 3 plies you would have just 2 passes to make.
These 4 passes with a 3/4 bit would give you a 3 inch step on each ply.

Do the same on the other piece you are connecting to.

Do careful measuring and you will end up with a glorious splice anyone would be proud of.
With these two ends put on some tight bond water proof glue and clamp.
Let harden.
Put up as you wish but nail the splices on that center support.
Here is a picture of what I am talking about.
[ATTACH]40525[/ATTACH]
I need a web site.:roll:

You can tell me to get lost or ask away just here to help.

Worth.

So the idea behind the splice is to make the equivalent of a long board? I want to get better at woodworking, which is why I am interested in this design. A router is a little over my head right now, but I could learn.

I can get the same 20' board in untreated pine for about $10. But my idea with the soaking in water, from what I am just guessing, should not matter either way. Pressure treated lumber will soak up moisture, at least similarly I think, as compared to untreated. I am basing this guess on having worked with treated lumber that varies tremendously in weight, based upon moisture content.

I've been researching it more.

These are the free plans that are on several web sites:
[url]http://www.lsuagcenter.com/NR/rdonlyres/5B7AFAF1-C045-4376-9261-4627AD3CF03D/14655/6298GothicRafterGreenhouse.pdf[/url]

A popular version of the structure is the "Stimson Bow-Roof Shed." It is intended for boat storage, but can be used as a greenhouse, too. The Stimson guy wants $20 for his plans. Most people seem to think it's worth the price:
[url]http://www.by-the-sea.com/stimsonmarine/bowroof.html[/url]

Also, I thought this was a neat variation on the plan - these people built their shed with curved end walls instead of vertical: [url]http://clsue.home.comcast.net/~clsue/4993.JPG[/url]

Lumber availability and the way it varies depending upon location seems to be a common issue. Some people are soaking the wood for 30 minutes or so before bending it if they are using pine. Steaming wood is apparently even better at making it flexible than just soaking. I am envisioning building a 20-ft long board steamer just to see what it could do.

Beautiful structure! I am jealous!

[QUOTE=Cole_Robbie;384646]...Also, I thought this was a neat variation on the plan - these people built their shed with curved end walls instead of vertical: [url]http://clsue.home.comcast.net/~clsue/4993.JPG[/url]...[/QUOTE]

That looks interesting, but it makes it harder to frame a door and vents!

Maybe a Coleman scissor door would work?

They used to grow oaks just for ship building.
The ship builder would go out and pick out the naturally bent limbs for various sections of the ship.

Worth

I did not soak the wood, but it was fairly freshly cut. The wood was not selected for least branches in it, so I could use maybe 2/3 of it and 1/3 either cracked or I could not use. Steaming should work very well, but I think one still has to select the wood with little or no branches.

Great links! It is fun how similar everybody's constructions look, they are beautiful!

Sears used to sell these barns in kits and it makes me sad to think of the junk we have to buy these days.

The old barn and house I lived in in Missouri was made out of solid oak.
Worth
[ATTACH]40557[/ATTACH]

I found this image and found it to be very inspiring or even breath taking.
If you look there are saw horses on the wood floor.
A saw horse is usually around waist high so you can get an idea of just how big this barn is.
Worth
[ATTACH]40558[/ATTACH]

I dont necessarily want to make a Gothic green house but I do need to build some for something else.

So here is what I came up with to help in the design of them.

If you draw a circle then move over to the outer edge and draw another one what you will see is the arch.
You can move the circle over one way or the other to get what you want.
If done to scale you will know exactly what you need in length of lumber before you get started.

Probably over complicating things but thought it might help.

Worth

[ATTACH]40559[/ATTACH]

I just found this pdf presentation on how to draw the gothic designs, including arches. I never realized that the great Medieval castles and cathedrals were designed with just a compass and a ruler.

[url]http://faculty.scf.edu/condorj/256/presentations/Gothic%20Constructions.pdf[/url]

[QUOTE=Cole_Robbie;384816]I just found this pdf presentation on how to draw the gothic designs, including arches. I never realized that the great Medieval castles and cathedrals were designed with just a compass and a ruler.

[URL]http://faculty.scf.edu/condorj/256/presentations/Gothic%20Constructions.pdf[/URL][/QUOTE]

I still have my drafting set from years ago.

Wouldn't know what to do without my old picket compass set and draftsman rule.

Here is one like mine I picked up in a pawn shop for $10 about 30 years ago.

Now they call stuff like this vintage.:(
I have used it and a ruler to make what they call a wrap around to cut notches for race car frames when you weld the tubing together.

[ATTACH]40562[/ATTACH]

I would also like to thank you for putting up the link.
I have downloaded it to my computer and will have hours of good times with it.
I love this stuff.:yes:


Worth

[QUOTE=tomaatti;384127]
I made the arches myself, that was not very difficult. I made a small mistake during the construction, [COLOR=Red]I did not think it was that important to carefully line the small bits in the arches.[/COLOR] [COLOR=Red]It turned out to be quite important.[/COLOR] When the bits are not lined, it is a bit tricky to insert the long pieces of wood between the arches. I had to use short pieces every now and then, and that was the most time consuming task of all.[/QUOTE]

I missed this post.

After looking at this one and then looking at your picture I see what you are talking about.

This reminds me of something like this that happened to me a few years ago.

It involves steel studs and running conduit.
In the picture below you will see factory made holes in the studs.
[ATTACH]40567[/ATTACH]

These studs have a top and a bottom and if you dont pay attention the holes wont line up.
The holes are for conduit to go through in a straight line.
The south of the border framing crew flipped every other stud so they wouldn't line up.

I had to use a hole saw and cut holes in about 100 of these studs to run my conduit.
This was an unnecessary pain in the butt.:x
I think they intentionally did this.
We had to keep a constant eye on everything on that job or it would come up missing.
Just a thought as your post reminded me of this.

Worth