You know, if you are going to heat it, in fact, just in general, any greenhouse attached to a structure should have particular attention paid to moisture proofing and vapor control between any existing wood structure and the greenhouse area.

That makes sense so I dont rot the wood etc. Ill have DH work on that. Thank you

[quote=landarc]You know, if you are going to heat it, in fact, just in general, any greenhouse attached to a structure should have particular attention paid to moisture proofing and vapor control between any existing wood structure and the greenhouse area.[/quote]
Good point. landarc

To be considered:
1. Moisture forms on surfaces that's colder. If your house is warmer, moisture is not a problem; however, if the garage is colder, moisture will condense on the garage area.
2. Moisture vapor can migrate thru structure unless vapor barrier is used. They sell vapor barrier paint.
3. some commercial greenhouse frames has built-in gutter system to drain away water.
4. some plastic wall panels are treated to "sheet" water away.
5. Treated wood should be used if possible. Check and avoid if the wood is treated with arsenic.

dcarch

One more thing re. moisture:

All dissimilar metals must not make contact with each other in the presence of moisture. they should be insulated or isolated to avoid electro-galvanic corrosion.

dcarch

And, most pressure-treated wood these days is saturated with copper, so has the same galvanic issues...

Looks like you could remove part of the roof... the lowest 4x8 pieces of plywood and shingles and replace that with sometype of corrugated, clear roofing to allow more natural light, especially since it's facing SW.

Good luck to you. What a great project.

The teardown should be a snap, especially with 2 eager men around with hammers and saws! I love the structure and it shouldn't be much to do something simple like what the computer generated plan showed. I'm on board - Tear it down!

Alternatively, you might consider taking the roof off this year and doing a poly carb roof in its place and doing the front in polycarb with metal framing as shown, then next year take the back wall out and complete the structure. I'm jealous! You can't go wrong with whatever you do as long as you open it up if you're going to grow in it.

PS... It would not be too difficult to heat with the attached house and garage. Just a thought. Beautiful!

Another thought about that front wall, do it in cedar 2X4's instead of the metal. Easier for the do-it-yourself'er and more easliy planned. May be easier to tie into also as you progress and you can plan each opening with the polycarb sheet size in mind. Either way, have fun! :arrow:

Thanks everyone. I think maybe next year they may do the roof. But for now we will definately be doing the poly carbonate out in the front. We will extend the roof out a bit with the polycarbonate as well. I cant wait to post pics of how it comes out..

The good and bad news. The bad news is we cant completely make the roof clear, and remove it etc. Way to costly.... BUT we are doing 50% skylights with poly carbonite. Its better than nothing. :)

I'd love to see new pics or hear an update on this project!

The project is about 50% right now as we stopped working on it due to the weather. But in April we plan on it being fully functional. OK maybe not half completed but we have 7 skylights in.... So far thats all we have accomplished. It will be done when it warms up. I think that was the hardest part
WELCOME to tomatoville Johno!

Could you put in several skylights in that covered roof portion? that might cut down a bit on your lighting needs-

Also, the front face of it (facing out)- you can line with water barrels as you find them- water holds a lot of heat and may significantly reduce your need for a heater with enough bulk of water (search Passive Solar designs)

Then, as long as its doesnt freeze completely hard out in that area, you could bring in your wormbins for better production year round!

Yes, the skylights were put in the roof portion :) I like the water barrel idea to save on heating costs and the idea of the worms being a bit "protected" out there. Its better than the freezing temps out side. Thank you for the ideas garnetmoth :)

dcarch said
"1. Moisture forms on surfaces that's colder."

Actually, its the other way around. Warm air holds more moisture, and when in contact with colder objects the moisture in the warm air will condense on the surface of the warm side.

That's why moisture barriers are always placed on the heated side of walls floors etc. (foil faced wall insulation,etc.)

That's why we have coasters, to protect the table, because the condensation forms ofn the outside of the glass. : )