Welcome to the class! ;)


Technically you can use any F1 as root stock, or even Op. But you would want to use one with some soil borne disease resistance built into it. Like Big Beef, Big Boy , Better Boy etc. Another factor in choosing a root stock (IMO) is the it should be vigorous plant with big root system. In this case you might see some improvement in production.

As far as seeds saving is concerned, the scion retains its genetic characteristics and it is not altered/affected by the root stock. You get the same fruit from the grafted OP as from non grafted.

[QUOTE=Gardeneer;618762]Welcome to the class! ;)


Technically you can use any F1 as root stock, or even Op. But you would want to use one with some soil borne disease resistance built into it. Like Big Beef, Big Boy , Better Boy etc. Another factor in choosing a root stock (IMO) is the it should be vigorous plant with big root system. In this case you might see some improvement in production.

As far as seeds saving is concerned, the scion retains its genetic characteristics and it is not altered/affected by the root stock. You get the same fruit from the grafted OP as from non grafted.[/QUOTE]


Right. I was indeed looking for some hybrid that is supposed to be vigorous and disease/BER resistant. I don't have any hybrid seeds but I found an Italian vendor that sells many and some of them sound perfect for this purpose.
I'd like to use OR117 and Opalka or Polish Linguisa as scions.

[QUOTE=Fritz77;618765]Right. I was indeed looking for some hybrid that is supposed to be vigorous and disease/BER resistant. I don't have any hybrid seeds but I found an Italian vendor that sells many and some of them sound perfect for this purpose.

I'd like to use OR117 and Opalka or Polish Linguisa as scions.[/QUOTE]



I'm looking forward to seeing how some of the "wispy" foliage pastes behave when grafted onto rootstock. I have several on my list and they have typically been among the earliest to succumb to diseases.

For this first attempt I'm grafting a few varieties of pastes to both RST-04-106-T and DRO141TX to compare results.

Hopefully, these photos will show up. Here is my set up and my babies. All seem to be doing well. I've got them under lights now. No wilting or anything. 100% success rate with this batch.

Aaaand, they came out sideways. Oh well.

Nice, I took mine out of the chamber for a bit yesterday. Seems the early grafts arent healing well and they wilted quickly. The newer grafts seemed to fare better and only wilted after a few hours. Oddly the 2 PL grafts (Prudens Purple) seem to be doing the best.

My grafted plant is out of chamber and is under light with the rest of my plants.
seems to be growing.
Thanks for the lessons. Can I graduate now ?:))

Your ahead of me :( wanna stay back and keep me company? Seems I need to be in the "basic" grafting class :twisted:

I will say that mine don't appear to be growing yet. I can see the root systems have grown in the clear containers. I'm hoping all of the stress of grafting doesn't stunt the growth overall.

I did another mad scientist maneuver today and tried grafting bell pepper to my Texas Wild tomato rootstock. Sweet peppers don't do too well in the wet clay soil here, but TW does great. So we'll see what happens. I read a paper in an amateur science publication that said that it does work (best using the wedge method). We'll see if they take and actually grow.

[url]http://legacy.jyi.org/articleimages/3661/Grafting%20Capsicum.pdf[/url]

[QUOTE=txtstorm;618886]I will say that mine don't appear to be growing yet. I can see the root systems have grown in the clear containers. I'm hoping all of the stress of grafting doesn't stunt the growth overall.

I did another mad scientist maneuver today and tried grafting bell pepper to my Texas Wild tomato rootstock. Sweet peppers don't do too well in the wet clay soil here, but TW does great. So we'll see what happens. I read a paper in an amateur science publication that said that it does work (best using the wedge method). We'll see if they take and actually grow.

[url]http://legacy.jyi.org/articleimages/3661/Grafting%20Capsicum.pdf[/url][/QUOTE]

It takes a little time for them to start really growing after the stress of grafting but they will start growing. Mine take even longer because I leave very little in the way of leaves on the scion before I graft. It just makes handling easier and my cuts easier to do; but at the same time it can slow down how fast they grow for a week or so. Growth will really take off when they get outside in the garden and those vigorous root systems of the root stock get a chance to feed on all the goodies in the ground.

Bill

Hi. I’m going to wait some more before I start my seeds and do my grafting experiments. This morning I woke up and found the 3rd frost of February outside. I must try to keep my tomato fever under control:wait:! I could do the experiments but I wouldn’t know what to do with the seedlings once it’s time to transplant them:?!?:.
Meanwhile I can study for my final exams and tell you what I found out.
Grafting clips are expensive here:panic:!
Following Bill’s advices, I was looking for clips of different sizes but this task won’t be easy nor cheap at least here in Italy.
On Ebay I found some imported clips.
These are the only silicone clips I found. They come from the U.K. and have a 1,75 mm diameter. That’s the only size for this kind. They don’t seem very easy to handle but I could be wrong.
Then I found another kind of clip (the red one) which is more like a clothespin and it’s made of plastic. It comes from China and has a 22mm diameter.
The third one I found is also shaped like a clothespin, it’s made of plastic, comes from Honk Kong and doesn’t give precise information about the diameter. The description says: “Suitable for 2-4.5mm seedlings”. I don’t know what that means.

All of the above have affordable costs. Which ones would you buy?

[QUOTE=txtstorm;618820]Hopefully, these photos will show up. Here is my set up and my babies. All seem to be doing well. I've got them under lights now. No wilting or anything. 100% success rate with this batch.[/QUOTE]

So you are using a heat mat? I ask because I have extra and may try it if it will speed healing.

[QUOTE=BigVanVader;619032]So you are using a heat mat? I ask because I have extra and may try it if it will speed healing.[/QUOTE]

I don't think that would be a good idea. You might just want to give them a little drink of diluted Texas Tomato Food. I gave some of mine a drink on the 5th day because they were wilting and it helped. I didn't give them much just a tablespoon or two. Whenever you decide that the grafts look like they are doing okay with the lid completely off it is a good time to give them a drink. Once the lid is off you may have to give them a drink every few days depending on how hot or dry it is.

Bill

Mine is ok. It has nice green color. The reason being that the bcion was left in its pot that had been fertilized lightly before grafting:

QUESTION: When do you remove the tube ?

[QUOTE=Gardeneer;619101]

QUESTION: When do you remove the tube ?[/QUOTE]


Advice of many is to leave it on until it falls off on its own.